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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:35 am 
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OK so i have been having problems with the indicators not working on the Rover (hazzards work, but not indicators from sterring wheel) so I moved the Rover into the middle of the garage to have a play with the relay and to check her water and oil.

I grab the dipstick and as i pull it up behind the air conditioning radiator, there is a spark like touching two live wires which makes me jump. As i jump, i let go of the dipstick and it must have touched what ever it touched to spark, and thre was a small puff of smoke and a whinning noise and then nothing. So i pushed the dipstick away from the radiator and pull it all the way out. I then went to start her and now all i get is a click like a completely dead battery. I get reds, lights and everything work, i have checked over all of the wiring around the front of the engine bay and there is not evidence of burned wires (I know what this looks like from an earlier car!!).

I have now checked the wiring from the battery and its Ok. Checked over the wiring from the fuse box on the firewall to the solenoid and that is ok. Checked the wiring from the solenoid to the starter motor and that seems ok. Checked all the fuses and replaced 2. I have pulled out the seats and pulled up the carpet and there is no frayed wires. I have removed the stereo and 'dashboard' and there are no fuses behind the firewall. There is no evidence once again of any burned wires or loose connections. I swapped batteries between my moke and Rover and the moke started fine with the Rover battery and the Rover just clicked.

thoughts?? Ideas??

(edit - my brother has my multimeter so i havent been able to check voltage etc at any of the points whcih is my next step but if there is anything else i should try, the advice is much appreciated)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:53 am 
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Hi

I maybe wrong but I had the same clicking noise and thought it
to be battery but it was the starter motor


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:56 am 
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MPI or SPI? If SPI the problem could be in the dizzy (most likely not, but that's what might have sparked on the dipstick).

Manual or Auto transmission? Dipsticks are in different spots too.

(and before somone else says it....you let the smoke out that's the problem!)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:10 am 
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Sounds like the start relay has been fried.
There is a black box near or on the brake booster frame, inside the box (you will need to lever it open then use something to seal it again) there are relays for the start circuit, fuel pump and engine main relay.
To test the start relay (you will need help and a test light) test and see if you get power to the WHITE with RED trace wire going to the relay pack when you turn the key to start.
If no power there then it is a fuse.

If you have power going in, check the BROWN with RED trace when you turn the key to start. If no power the relay is buggered, if all good then check the same colour wire at starter motor. If you still have power at the starter motor then your solenoid on the starter is done for.

Have a look at the following PDF file, it has the wiring diagram that you need.
Look on page 14, that is the start charge cuircuts.
http://mini.nicehelp.co.uk/Circuit%20Diagrams.pdf
Hope this helps you find the problem.
Cheers Pete

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:20 am 
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Harley wrote:
MPI or SPI? If SPI the problem could be in the dizzy (most likely not, but that's what might have sparked on the dipstick). Manual or Auto transmission? Dipsticks are in different spots too.


Harley - MPi and its an auto with the dipstick at the front drivers side corner behind the 2nd radiator/fan for the air conditioner unit. Its all a tight squeeze thats for sure.

deluxe_68 wrote:
Sounds like the start relay has been fried.
Have a look at the following PDF file, it has the wiring diagram that you need.
Look on page 14, that is the start charge cuircuts.
http://mini.nicehelp.co.uk/Circuit%20Diagrams.pdf
Hope this helps you find the problem.
Cheers Pete


Pete - brilliant advice. Thank you. I coudnt find any of that on any of the UK sites! I didnt even realise you could open those sealed 'boxes'..!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 9:26 am 
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For future reference your car is SPI, not MPI. They were electrically different.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:28 am 
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apologies. Its a 1987 Rover Austin Mini Mayfair with later 1996 single point fuel injected engine with auto gearbox....


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 10:39 am 
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And you have AC too? The wiring must be crazy! :D


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:56 pm 
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Its a Brickworx Special....

and when i say special i MEAN special.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:42 pm 
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Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:38 am 
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Looks like the solenoid went..... relays and fuses and wiring all good. No start though.

:(


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:25 pm 
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Don't suppose it's a flat battery is it?
:lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:58 pm 
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Harley wrote:
Don't suppose it's a flat battery is it?
:lol:


Definitely not.... I made that mistake before so even with my limited know how and massive amounts of stupidity, I checked that first. Swapped batteries with my moke. Rover battery powered the moke no problems. I also tried "jump starting' her with the Suzuki and it all came up with the click. I also checked with the multimeter and i got good readings across the battery, from positive battery to battery earth, from positive battery to strut, and from positive connection on solenoid earthed to the engine.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:31 pm 
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What type of starter and solenoid does it have?

Can you short the solenoid with a spanner to get it to run the starter?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:24 pm 
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I wouldn't try and short the starter motor.
Surely if the car can be push / roll / tow started and the car runs then that's the way to definitely say it's the starter motor?


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