I am replacing the wheel bearings at the front of my mini. Got the hubs off and thought that I may as well do the upper and lower ball joints too after all, I don't know how old they are. Trouble is, I don't have a big enough socket to get the old ones off the hubs. What size socket do I need to buy please.

Cheers

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

ball joints are 1 1/2 in but you need a deep socket to get over the threaded bit.

try Repco they will have to order ine in for you.

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120bhp with 450kg just fun waiting to happen

We were prob. drunk when we set it up last and thought this will be a good idea

Edit - fang beat me to it!

edit 2 - like this - http://www.minisport.com.au/prod183.htm

1 1/2 deep socket, will do the ball joints and the flywheel bolt. Mini suppliers do a 1/2 in drive rather than 3/4.

cheers

Kevin

Of course, since a socket of this size and type may not be used all that often it's worth considering alternatives that are useful for other purposes, such as a large shifting spanner. I also picked up a few large good quality secondhand ring spanners at swap meets and on eBay that will do multiple jobs.

Balljoints need to be torqued up to 72lb/ft torque for safety and their hex flats are quite narrow. A big shifter doesn't cut it, really. Been there, done that.
Deep socket is the way to go. As said it does the flywheel bolt, too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I agree it's best to have the right tool. With a socket you can use a torque wrench and it won't slip and wreck the nut like a shifter may. I'm simply saying that, if funds are a major issue you can do the job with a shifter or ring spanner that can then be used for other purposes. My big shifter has been used for all sorts of plumbing and other jobs around the house, as well as on cars. The tension on the ball joint nut may not be ideal but it will work.

Winabbey,

I see where you are coming from, but having been a passenger in a mini that has had the passenger side bottom ball joint unwind and separate its self at 100Km/H... DON'T DO IT! The nut hadn't been done up tight enough with a shifter so the lock tab did diddly squat... Survived mostly unscathed (car and occupants) but definitely a disappearing seat cushion moment!

cheers

Kevin

I bought on the weekend a 1 1/2 deep socket for 29 bucks, and a 1 5/16 not deep socket to suit the cam nut and steering colum bolt for 15 bucks.

The 1 1/2 is a 3/4 drive and the 1 5/16 is a 1/2 drive.

I got them from gasweld and didn't have to order them in.

Cheers

Hi Kevin,

I've rallied Minis with ball joints assembled without a socket and without a problem. Using a socket doesn't guarantee that everything will be OK, in the same way that using a shifter or ring spanner doesn't mean the ball joint will automatically come undone at high speed like yours did. When you regularly use a torque wrench you get a feel for how much pressure to exert. There are important aspects to consider when assembling a ball joint, such as cleanliness, signs of wear on the ball and cup, number and thickness of shims, etc.

To be clear, I support using a socket and torque wrench on key engine and suspension nuts/bolts whenever possible, including ball joints. A shifter or ring spanner is a reasonable alternative in some situations, but not for the flywheel bolt, head nuts, big-end nuts, various gearbox nuts, etc. where tension is critical.

IMO the most important thing is make sure the cap is TIGHT and use NEW lockwashers.
I also was a passenger in a Morris 1100 that shed a balljoint, it was quite a whiteknuckle ride...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep, I hear you and agree!

I just figure, its better to tell people how to do it the right way using the correct tools, especially if experience is unknown or limited. The job can still be stuffed up, but I find usually the correct tools make it easier to get it right.

Like you, I used a shifter before I got the right socket and never had a problem, I would still rather use the proper socket given the choice.

cheers

Kevin

Using a shifter on a ball joint will only get you hurt or killed. Listen to the people that have got far more experence than yourself and do the job properly. Any mechanic with any experence in the motor industry would laugh at the idea of having a shifter in there toolbox.

AND - we have had this discussion before.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

I picked up a deep 1½" x ½" drive socket during the week at Fisher Discount Tools in Fyshwick. It was $26.75.

I didn't know mechanics had a sense of humour

Seriously, a couple of different sized shifters were essential components of a tool box carried in a rally car 'back in the old days', together with a roll of fencing wire, a few rolls of gaffer tape and a hammer. It's amazing what repairs you could achieve at 3am on a Sunday morning in the middle of a North Eastern Victorian pine forest. Ah, those were the days.

Happiness is a dirt road and a Mini Cooper S.

We have a sense of humour, we just dont show it

Im sure you could get away with using a shifter to tighten ball joints up but too many times I have seen the effects of loose bolts on minis and I would rather see people do the job properly, rather than them do a half assed job that may get them killed. (I have driven more than one customers mini around the block and got back to find all sorts of horrors when raised up on the hoist)
And yes, tie wire, a hammer and gaffer tape have many uses.

_________________
Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.