Oil leaks on my leyland are driving me mad. the main culprits are the diff side cover, and primary gear oil seal. Is it possible that the wear on the crank snout is enough for it to leak past the primary gear bush? I have had the engine out for various reasons and replaced the seals about 5 times and installed new pot joints.
maybe I should run different oil? maybe get the crank ground and new primary bush to suit. should I replace the side cover bushes and ream? the diff & sidecovers may have been initially attached to another gearbox, I know they prob aren't scraped and matched from factory, should I bolt them up and line ream them?
opinions?
thanks
Tarlo

Do you think something like these could work. I've used them before on my old EB falcon to great effect for a persistant oil leak from the front main seal..

Speedi Sleeve

How many breathers do you have and are they able to do thier job (are they blocked/filled with crap)? In other words is it possible that it has to much crank case pressure and its pushing past the primary seal.
Have you or someone else rebuilt the engine if not maybe the bearings are on thier way and the crank is flopping around enough to damage the primary seal and cause it to leak?

Do you know if the diff was shimmed up correctly? Maybe its doing the same thing as your crank, flopping around and damaging the seal as well as possible crank case pressure.
Also when the diff side covers are fitted before tightening do you put the pot on the shaft to help centrally locate the diff side cover?

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

If the diff side cover seals leak at low mileage it's usually due to wear in the cover bushes.
I cut them out with a hacksaw, press new ones in, then machine them in the lathe to have .001" clearance on the pot joint or output yoke.

The pot joint won't centralize the cover, as there is a spigot on the cover for this purpose. It's a neat fit in the gearbox case.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I was thinking about crankcase pressure and the timing case seal . . . . a little bit of fatigue setting in I guess.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDMkVq1jRGU

how on earth do you work to those tolerances doc? I am struggling to hold .100

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Maaate, I can do 1/2 a thou clearance on my rocker shaft bushes..
I find it's easier to hold these tolerances on a bench lathe than on a bigass one.
I guess having 40+ years of machining experience (on mostly crap equipment) helps too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Tappet cover and rocker cover has ventilation. I don't have access to a lathe, unless someone in melb wants to lend? could maybe hand ream? Def low km, lucky to have done 10. Timing cover seal seemed fine. Crank seemed to have a fair bit of end float but measured to be within tolerance.

Can you remove diff side covers without removing engine?

Yes you can.
Drain oil first or you will get a surprise..
remove driveshafts.
Knock pot joints out.
Remove covers. Don't lose any shims you find in there, they must go back.
Also measure the old gaskets and the new ones- if thicker you will need extra shims.

I don't believe you can hand ream these bushes and keep them in line.
The cover needs to be set up square in the lathe in a 4 jaw chuck, with the bush running true.
There is around .005" or so to come out of the bush, measure each pot joint diameter.

Find someone with a lathe, it's only a 30 min job to do both.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok, so I'm up to the part "knock pot joints out" and was wondering if there is a service tool for this application? New pots and circlips were a light tap fit on the spline and struggling to get them back out with the two screwdrivers.

i wrapped the end of a crowbar with a rag and popped it off

Just hold a block of wood against the joint at an angle, and hit with a VBFH.
I use a thin 1" open end spanner ground out to 1-1/4" width, and the 2 prongs ground to a chisel shape.
It looks a bit like a pair of cold chisels.
1 hit with a brickie's hammer and it's out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks guys, thats what I needed to know. Have got a few modified spanners myself. Will let you know how I go after modding a spanner, or investing in a VBF hammer. was trying to use a little air hammer with chisel but shes in tight. At least with a modded spanner I should be able to get more even pressure and closer in.
Might have to invest in a crow bar, and a length of pipe for the workshop:shock:

It just needs one big hit and not a lot of little ones.