I got brand new master cylinders!!!!

Only $256.00 delivered with all the gaskets too. But thanks to the EU and their strict rules on carcinogens, the chroming on them is far from excellent.

But now I'd like to know how to bleed the clutch and brakes. I've got the "bleeder kit" and know where to connect it, I only would like to know the procedure for bleeding... i.e. front wheels first? Left side first? I've never done a mini before.

The recommended order is start as far away from the MC as possible, so that means LH rear, RH rear, LF front, RH front.

I would bench bleed the MC first.
Fill with fluid, push piston plunger in, put finger over top connection hole, release plunger, remove finger, repeat until you get fluid out the top.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

And be very carefull..
Once the cylinder starts to pump it has a range of about 3 metres.

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

The bleeder screw out of the clutch slave fits nicely in a master cylinder for bench bleeding.

I guess then with the smaller orifice it'll have a range of 6 metres!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

And you can stick a hose on it to control the direction better.

I like to dismantle new cylinders to check them over before fitting. Just to make sure that it is all ok. It may save time in the long run.

Thanks everyone. I'm fitting them this weekend so hopefully all the advice works. I'll post a pic next week of the shiniest things in my engine bay.

So I officially give up. I can't get any pressure in either the brake or clutch cylinder. I've done everything I can think of. I did a search of ausmini and found the info on trickle bleeding and even tried that.... and all that did was waste 3/4 litre of fluid. I even ran a compressed air brake bleeder vacuum thingo. So I think it's off to the mechanics this week unless anyone can help me????

Did you bench bleed them first like DrMini suggested?
Did you dismantle the cylinders first to check for faults like I suggested?

Check and Check.

Thanks for the tips M1100. They both look exactly like my scientific publications workshop manual no.64. It has me stumped. I even used the half split rule to try and find out if it was only the back or only the front. It gets no pressure at all so I'm guessing it cant be a blocked line and there is no fluid leaking out anywhere so it can't be a split pipe. And worst of all is it was working just fine before I pulled the old one out, even though the old one was leaking at the master cylinder.

so, when you bled them on the bench and closed of the nipple, you couldn't push in the pushrod right? Just making sure you got of to that good start.

I would be checking that, and making absolutely sure all the nipples and pipes were tight, which they probably are if you didn't disturb them

That fluid must have gone somewhere?

If its used fluid then the piston wouldn't be jammed up, which happens even with new/reco MC

i start at the closest brake and work my way to the furthest, and then work my way back again to the closest.

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--Insert legal disclaimer here--

having said that if you cant get clutch pressure and its using a lot of fluid something is amiss

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--Insert legal disclaimer here--

Thanks Gareth1330. I didn't actually check by closing the hole on top. All I did was squirt out the liquid by pushing the plunger. So I'll give it another crack this week before I ring up the mechanics. I'm guessing he'll do the same as me anyway but charge much more. I've got advice off a few blokes at work today too. I'll report back later.