Hi guys,

I’m at it again. I just got this question, so with winnabey’s permission I am posting the answer
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Another “Phat Kat’s guide to body perfection In 8 easy steps or less”
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1. remove the side seam cover. It may require a motivational speech to get it off, and at the top where it meets the drip rail you will need to grind it off (or heat it up,, they are just brazed on)

2. unbolt and remove the latch panel for the bonet locking mechanisim.

3. remove the indicator light

4. remove the head lamp and bucket
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Ok from here you are ready to start removing the panel
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1. start at the A panel/pillar seam. You can tackle it 2 ways
a) using a spot weld cutting bit, drill the spot welds out until the flange is free
b) using a cut off wheel, cut the panel off just in front of the seam, (about 1/8" in front) and then using a grinding wheel remove all remaining traces of the flange from the seam. If you don't remove it all, the new panel will not line up correctly

2. Sit down inside the wheel arch. Look towards the front of the car. You should be able to follow the panel all the way to an internal flange close to the back of the indicator. Remove the guard from the front valence in the same manor used on the seam

3. Stand up and move to the front of the car. If you look at the provision for the head lamp, there is a couple more spot welds there to remove

3. look along the top edge of the panel. With the bonnet (preferable removed) look at the channel that the edge of the bonnet sits in, this is the last place the place where the welds need removal. I tend to just cut the panel off and grind it back at this point. I find it easier.
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Time for the new panel
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Regarding your question about welding... well... most people prefer MIG because it is "easier"... me I use Oxy. It has a lot of advantages (probably only relevant if you can hand form). But if you want an original looking repair, one that looks spot welded with out buying a spot welder, I'd say braze it. Its what we do in the resto industry if you don't have a spot welder. You drill holes (5/16") thru the flange faces where you want to "spot weld it", then fit it to the car clamp it, and braze inside the holes.

1. Hang the new panel on the car from the channel for the edge of the bonnet

2. Push it back till the flanges for the A panel seam are mated

3. Using 4 sets of vice grips, clamp the flanges together

4. Examine the gap between the scuttle panel and the front guard, make sure it is a consistent gap. It shouldn’t get wider at either end. Re position Vice grips if need be.

5. Braze your “spot weld holes” in along the A panel. I would suggest a number 6 tip or a number 8.

6. Position the flange inside the channel for the edge of the bonnet and braze it on

7. Do the same for the flange inside the head lamp hole

8. Finally the one inside the wheel arch.

9. Using Deoxidine and steel wool, scrub the living day lights out of the welds. You MUST remove all traces of the flux, OR THE PAINT WILL NEVER STICK. Wash the deoxidine off with metho and do it again just to be sure then give it a final scrub with multi purpose thinners

It is important to follow that order of welding so that you can make adjustments as you go... you will need to. Think of it like you are “wrapping” the new panel onto the body.

There you go. Panel replaced.

Regarding the A panel, Marc put up this link ages ago. It is a textbook example on how to patch them. He does it exactly the same way I would, its just easier to show you than try and explain it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jv3NikZfx4E
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Again, if that only makes sense in my head say so and I'll re-explain. Have fun.

Thanks heaps for this PK.
What if the front panel is past it, and so you want to replace it too?
How the hell do you get it all properly square...

It's a Clubby I'm thinking of doing (the replacement front panel is a Heritage one with the teardrop mounts) but I suppose a roundy is nearly as tricky.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ahh, yeah, that.

Thats the crap thing with replacement panels, they're never an exact fit.. (sometimes they just "don't" fit).

How much does the guard over hang by?

I've not taken the old one off yet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well, you may not '"need"" to replace the front valence, but you will need to detach it from the inner guard.

Get your guard tacked on (minus the valence), then detach the inner guard from the valence. If you stratigically bend the inner guard inwards (into the engine bay) you can bring the front edge of the inner guard back enough to refit the valence and be able to pull it back enough to fit the guard correctly.

Now what about the buldge into your engine bay? It should only be minnor anyway, but after the valence, inner and outer guards are all welded back together, you will be able to knock the inner gaurd back into the wheel arch and shrink it down a bit with out upseting where the valence and outer guard meet.

You may now find that (in this case) the mount for the sub frame is now too close to the cabin for the subframe to fit. You can either beat the sheet metal mount until it offers the clearance required...

...or remove it altogether, fit the subframe to the body using only the rear mounts, (you may need to supporting from underneath with a jack just to hold it steady and in the right place). Then, with the mount removed just open it up a little. Its just sheet steel bent at 90deg, open it up to a wider angle and refit when it offers the correct fit.

Obviously the bonnet will need adjusting afterwards.

Having done both front guards and front panel on a round nose using Italian pattern panels, almost all the time was spent on making them fit.

I cut off the guards and front panel close to the seams and then I drilled out all the spot welds. Then tried to pop them apart and found all the other spot welds hidden under crap!

Cleaned up all the flanges and the inner guards. Bolted a good front frame in and loosely bolted the front panel to it.

Then spent weeks massaging everything to fit together (including the bonnet). I had to buy another passenger guard cos the first had been put in the panel press skewiff and wouldn't fit in a month of Sundays.

With everything clamped in place and fitting together pretty well, I removed the e-coat from all the flanges to be welded and coated them with weld through primer.

Put the whole lot back on, aligned everything again and clamped it in place

Took the wings and front panel off still clamped together and did the easy bit, I had access to a sykes spot welder with all the attachments that had been bought for spot welding mini panels back together!

Bolt the thing to the frame, align it all and clamp into place. Then spot welded the whole thing onto the car. Did I mention a spot welder with the right attachments makes the welding part a breeze once everything fits properly? Pity I dont have access any more

In hindsight, I would have spent more time getting the panel alignment even better and would have bought better quality panels which should take some of the time out of fitting and fettling them.

I have film photos somewhere but they need to be scanned...

cheers

Kevin