All good points there. I'll add another couple:
1. Don't be tempted to put a new engine on a used box (even if recently rebuilt) without cleaning it out. Any muck in there will go through the new oil pump. At the very least, remove the oil strainer and pipe, layshaft and cluster gear. Then wash it out with clean diesel fuel. DO NOT HOSE IT..

2. A centre oil pickup pipe is a $100 wise investment. I've had 2 rebuilds lately on 1275s where the big end bearings and crankpins were very worn. This is a classic case of oil starvation- it happens on roundabouts particularly. The oil runs away from the standard pickup pipe if the level is much below the full mark.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

$3,700?

That’s not that bad plus $500 is what $4200?

I do want reliability but I also want a nice engine..

Going from a 988 to 1275 should have some notice

I am sure I can work with the engine builder to lower
costs by doing some of the cleaning and removal
process.

If I were to build a gearbox, I would do it with someone
who knows what to do

What Mike_Byron has written gives me a good
understanding of what is involved

and all of you have provided good points

I wouldn't even bother.

Certainly lift the powerplant out - take it off the gearbox and take the head off.

Leave the short motor assembled and the engineering place will strip it from there - they will also number the conrods in the correct order if that hasn't already been done.

Then they will dump it into an acid bath which will thoroughly clean it - no matter what you do you wont clean it as well as an acid bath so dont bother.

Part of the reason for an acid bath clean is that the blocks are cast in sand and the sand is never properly cleaned out. That plus oil sludge tends to build up in the oilways (galleries) over time and gives the classic case of "narrowing of the arteries". Taking out the welch plugs and cleaning galleries is part of the process. An acid bath assists in that process.

The engineering place when they strip the short motor will have a better eye for stretched bolts etc than you and will note them as they do it. I already assume that you are going to take it to one of the better engine builders ??

Mike

so that’s something I will have to have a look at
but I was just trying to establish a budget and
see what people think

my two cents:

Build up a decent box with a competition diffpin and the central oil pick up the Dr mentioned

Build up a good short motor to put on top. IE rebore, decent pistons, grind cam to somethign meaner, arp rod bolts, decent rods, grind crank, with eveything applicable lightened and/or balanced, decent head studs (cooper s/a+ or arp), new oil pump, water pump, if you have any overheating problems now get your radiator flushed or do something.

Then you can run it with a stock head/1.5 carb and whatever exhaust for now.

That will probably easily consume your money, but it will give you a strong base to work from. If theres any money spare, buy a decent exhaust if not, wait.

Then when you have some more, buy a good exhaust system, a better carby, and get someone experienced to work the head for you.

Then you should have something pretty mean

And discs are an absolute must... Shame you didn't get the 8.4s and some 12 inch wheels.

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--Insert legal disclaimer here--

Somebody please point Matt Read towards this thread

Mike

IMO if you get a gearbox rebuilt for $500 you are doing well indeed.
Last time I did up my Cooper S box (properly) it cost me $700 for parts.
If it needs 2 new selector forks, that is $300 alone.
A gearbox bearing kit (without the idler gear or diff bearings) is $140+.
A full gearbox overhaul kit (bearings, layshaft, baulk rings, gaskets, etc etc is $530+.
Then, there is labour to strip it and assemble.
It all adds up.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

$500 was in parts.

I can't remember what the total was. I think it was about another $300-400

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

i know greg malure recently charges someone 1500 for a g/box rebuild - parts and labour. Nothing fancy either, just a stocker

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--Insert legal disclaimer here--

yep,,, all good points from everyone so far,,, i wouldnt expect much change from $6000 if you were to have me re-build a 1275cc complete power unit

That is the entire package-->, engine overhaul, gearbox & diff upgrade & overhaul, clutch/flywheel etc re-new & upgrade, cyl head worked & overhauled, etc etc etc

there are some small tricky things you can do inside the donk while you`re there for safetly & performance , things like to make sure the center main cap isn`t wobbled upon/around so much from crank flex by narrowing of the lower thrusts etc,,, center oil pick up is good idea but can clogg up with muck/gunk over a long period of time driving without paying "strick" attention to regular oil & filter changes, so be aware that it`s not the "be all & end all" of oiling issues by any means,,, remember yin-yang & you get nothing for nothing,

happy to help you out if & where i can,,, i`m always open to a good chat & can guide you if needed,,, but i`m affraid i won`t be able to build you a motor till i`ve finished the 5x twin cam engines & 2x 5-port engines that i have at the moment,,, so you`ll be waiting a couple of years for me, sorry.

sooo,,, i`d suggest people like Wynnum Engine reconditioning 38932700, or Cooparoo engine reconditioning 33996025

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.