Well the title says it all doing the diff seal on driver side this arvo...... when i finally knocked the hub off, i found that the bottom ball and peg was marked heavily about halfway up the peg...... thus now the nut will not screw all the way up the shaft.

Question is...... can u disassemble the cup that the ball and peg sits in to get another one in??????

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I got nuthin......................

stevo can you take a better picture showing where this is located on the mini cause I can't contomplate (spelling) where it is found sorry for not knowing.

Pat

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Team MADMAN/Pat Rogers

Are you meaning the Ball Joint Top and Bottom..
If so use a Large shifter or spanner.
Buy New one's

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Ok the peg is on the right hand side there in the pics........... there is a hex nut on the bottom of the cup, so i assume i can screw that off, but i'm thinking it will be a nasty job

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I got nuthin......................

Ball Joint and that Hex is the retainer the other part which you need to undo...There is a Nipple to remove and the Lockerwasher removed (this stops the retainer becoming lose..Get thier with a screw driver
Inside you will find Shims and a Seat for the ball.
Hard part is getting the retainer off when she's on the Garage floor

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Yeah thats what i was thinking as i sat looking at the peg......swearing and getting angrier by the minute..........

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I got nuthin......................

You got a big Vice

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

sg...learn from this ...ball joints are replaceable...some other parts may not be so easy...if you find yourself having to use too much force...stop...you probably need help with a special tool or specialist advice.....I know

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"Show me the Mini!"

When too much force is barely enough!!!
Your probly doing it the wrong way
That said I've never found spliting tapered ball joints on anything easy, even with a ball joint spliting tool. (two hammers is my preferd method but I have bad timeing)

yeah i was trying to get the peg and the upper and lower arms even so that the peg would drop with minimal force............... they were so tight, the top eventually gave way easily, but the bottom would not budge no matter how or what i did............

oh well, new ball joint and i'll pay someone next time cos i never wanted to do the job in the first place, so my suspicions about my inabilties were well founded i guess

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I got nuthin......................

"scarred ball and peg"
made me cringe and cross my legs...

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Duc................ even when i'm boiling mad and so pissed off, you can still crack me up

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I got nuthin......................

a little more from the left field...

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

You need a deep 1-1/2" socket. I use a std 3/4" drive one with a 1/2" drive socket welded on top. It's long enough that the threaded pin can go up inside. Also handy for doing the flywheel nut...
Note- on reassembly, make sure it is done up tight. 72 lb/ft, and make sure the lock tab is good. It's not funny when it disassembles itself at 60MPH...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers Doc, will go and hunt one down tomorrow........ ready for reassembly sometime this week

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I got nuthin......................