Maybe in the future Gafmo wants 120HP+ like me... (he has a 1275 in bits too).
Now is the time to do it if so.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The 5/16 is for the hydrolastic lines I was asking about. I actually need 1/2 inch for the 1100.
Do truck brake lines go that big?

Madmorrie

Hi Madmorrie,

The Hydro Lines for a Mini are actually 3/8" and for these I would recommend Tubing of a 'Brake Line' grade.

3/8" Tubing Blackwoods P/N 0136 4655

1/2" Tubing Blackwoods P/N 0136 4752

Both of these are 6 metre lengths.

BTW, all these tubings from Blackwoods that I have quoted in this thread are copper coated steel that has been run through a furnace. The 'Brake Line' grade tubing is double thickness. Thoses quoted for fuel lines are only single, however it has been a long time since I purchased these tubings from Blackwoods as they can only supply in 6 metre lengths and I find it more economical to buy 24 metre rolls from IBS.

I'm not in a place to check(I'm interstate) but are you sure about the hydro lines GT? I grabbed a piece last week and was sure I was only just able to slide a 5/16th drill bit into the tube..

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Mick, could well be 5/16" ID, but this type of tube (Bundy) is measured on the OD. I haven't measured the ID at all, only OD. I could be wrong but I thought only Steel (black and Gal) Water Pipe is sized on the ID and copper and others on the OD - just to confuse us all......

<EDIT> The above is how I've always purchased this type of tubing and the PBR Catalogue lists the fitting sizes this way. Perhaps the Doc could shed a bit more light on pipe and tube sizes......

My 1984 Repco book list for PBR brake parts lists seamless copper tubing by the "nominal outside diameter" but the bundy tube does not say how it is measured.
It used to be sold in 18metre coils.

Tube is measured on Outside Diameter (OD)
Pipe is measured on the Nominal Bore size (NB) - the actual bore size varies with the wall thickness.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Now I see.... Thanks for clearing it up

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Yes, I remember reading that somewhere years ago now you mention it. But are you able to tell us what the technical difference is between pipe and tube? Is it that tube is generally made to finer tolerances (precision pipe)?

I was following this thread because I am looking at replacing all of my brake lines.

The flaring tool that was suggested (eBay) is that... a flaring tool.

Some of the joins are flares, so this will work; but others have thick end (olive?) on the end of the pipe. The opposite of a flared end.

How do people make these?

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'64 Mini 850 in need of a total rebuild (and a 1275 A+, and disks, and a whole lot more)

Yes, it did appear to be a flaring tool of the variety to make your own brake pipes. There are two types of flares on a mini, 'double flare' and 'invert'.

This is a tool that I did have (but wore out). It was good, but I had to dowel the two pipe clamp sections to make sure that the lined up 100%, otherwise the flares won't end up square to the pipe and then they'll leak for sure. You'll find most of the cheaper tools will all suffer this problem.

http://www.onlinetoolshop.com.au/produc ... g-Tool/493

(you can get them much cheaper than advertised here!)

The tool should do both, you usually make a 'double flare' one first, then remove the dolly and turn it in to an 'invert'.

On a Mini nearly all are 'double flare'. The 'invert' ones are on the rear subframe, where the lines join up with the flexible hoses. Mokes have these in two more places in the side boxes, on the couplers.

All of the connections are a flare of one type or the other, there are no olives used on hydraulic brakes. I think it is the double flares that you are refering to when you mention 'olives'.

It is a bit of an art to make complete pipes, but one that is easily aquired. Make sure you also get a decent tube bender too. Get some old tubing to play around with first as your first few pipes propably won't quite turn out how you would like! When cutting your tube, make it a bit on the longer than you think you need, you'll actually waste less this way! Be sure to also buy a decent tube cutter to get 100% square ends on the tubing (it wont flare square if it ain't cut square) and be sure to blow all the swarf from the tube following cutting & deburring (don't blow from your mouth, use low pressure air from a compressor).

If your only doing 1 car, buy your fittings and even the pipe from a Brake Specialist. You'll need about 5 - 6 metres of tube for 1 car. All the fittings are 3/8" UNF, unless you have tandem brakes, in which case the fittings for the Master Cylinder and Pressure Reducing Valve are M10 x 1.0mm pitch. The Female fittings for the Invert Flares I'd suggest re-using your old ones as those presently available are crap.

I generally make a template of the pipe that I am going to make up with welding wire, it's nice and soft so easy to shape. I have replace the piping in many many minis and mokes now and I have to say that while being time consuming, it is satisfying and of course much safer.

I vote that the last post be put in the mini how to section.

Thanks for that. With this info, and a little more digging around on the Internet I now understand how the ends of the lines are flared.

The two names for the end is:
- Bubble flare or
- Girling flare

These are the same thing. No olives. That's the closest thing I could think of at the time - having done some house plumbing.

I found a few step-by-step HOWTOs for "double flares". These are "bubble flares", with their ends pushed in. So the bubble flare is made the same way as a double flare, but stopping half way through the process.

In this link, http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html, just don't do the last step.

In this link, http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon/plumbingbrakes/plumbingdiscbrakes.html, a little over 1/2 way down the page they make a double flare. Just stop at figure 5 and you're done.

Thanks again for the help.

P.S. I can see myself making a beautiful brake line. Perfect curves. Wonderful flares. But forgetting to put the flare nuts on first...

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'64 Mini 850 in need of a total rebuild (and a 1275 A+, and disks, and a whole lot more)

You're not doing it right unless you forget to put the flare nuts on. In fact its damn near unprofessional!

I gotta say, making your own set of lines is pretty rewarding, especially after grappling with the hydro lines as well. It does help if you have the old ones to refer to, this way you can put the bends in the right place. The look of bright shiny new lines all over the car look pretty good.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.