Anyone know what special tool No. 18G588A is? Should be the TOOL to remove the needle roller bearing from the Radius Arm! So Gregory's says.

Anyone know how to remove them with minimal damage?

I guess dewatering fluid and a dolly throught the centre and give a few light taps?

Only been there for 39 years, how hard could it be?

Any other ides anyone?

I read hereabouts the other day something about the use of a dynabolt to grab the bearings before tapping them out from the other side... might be worth a search

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Thanks guys,

5 mins on the forum and all sorted!

I knew there'd be an easier way then thinking for myself!

Awesome! thanks again.

I need to replace the bronze bushes at the other end. Does anyone know if the needle-roller bearings can be used at both ends? To save all the drama of reaming?

I heard once that needle rollers were unsuitable because of the "restricted angular rotation of the shaft" and that's why bushes are used.

As I failed physics at school (along with just about every other subject) maybe some engineers on here can clarify.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

The bushes are 13/16" bore.
I screw a 7/8 BSW or 7/8 UNC tap in there, then drift it out from the other end.

I do the same trick with the 2 remote shift/magic wand bronze bushes in the diff housing, for them I use a 9/16" UNF tap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The bore in the swing arm is not big enough to take a needle roller in place of the bush, however bushes (of the right material) in this type of application will take greater loads and last longer. The needles in the rollers are too small in diameter.

well that settles that then..Thanks GT

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

If this is true:
1. Why did BMC change to a needle bearing on the inner end in 1960?
2. Why did BMC fit 2 needle bearings to the bigwheel Moke?

It's not only a load thing- it's lack of lube. Bushes seize with no grease...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yes, they did, but god only knows why they did. Mokes EAT the needle rollers and the Trailing Arm Pin in the process. I converted ours to bushes some 20+ years ago and never looked back.

<EDIT> I also seem to recall that BMC had some financial interests in Torrington Bearings so maybe that has something to do with it.

To answer your question, see below (it's actually 18G583, plus adapter for needle rollers). The trade purchase price at December 1974 was $23.25 and $17.70 for the adapter.

I've wondered this as well, they really aren't well suited to the application at all. There's bugger all surface area actually supporting the pin copmpared to the bush, the pin only moves within a few degrees through its life, the rollers are prone to rust as the grease is prone to being pushed away and the rusted up needle roller will sieze onto the pin eventually.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Do a Morris 1100- put real bearings in there somehow. Timken tapered rollers.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So does anyone know what became of Litchfield?

Another good Oz engineering co. (SA?) gone into oblivion

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.