Hi guys,

I need to get a new bolt, the old bolt has stripped, even new bolts just slip when you try to do them up. So what length is the bolt, can I just buy a high tensile one from bunnings or do I need a special mini part? The thread is 1/4" I believe.

hg.

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Copper 4 lyfe!

It's 1/4 UNF x 2 1/4 long, grade 5 tensile. I don't think bunnyrabbits would have such an animal. Try a fastener suppliers. I usually use cap head bolts (they're grade 8 or 10).

check the thread in the steering shaft. It may also be partly stripped. when fitting a new bolt make sure that it has a full dia where it fits into shaft not on a threaded section.
if the thread has stripped then drill out to 1/4"and fit cap head bolt right thru with a high tensile nut and lock nut . Make sure the slot has a small gap so that when tight it is clamping on spline

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

???
All my Mini ones (stock) have a 1/4 UNF bolt, and a nut...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Okay I went and tried to fix my problem with 'dead area and clunk sound' when changing directions today.

It turns out the old bolt shaft is 1.358in long (1 3/8ths?). Went to bunnings, but they only had up to 1" long of 1/4" UNF bolt. While I was there I decided that dealing with stripped nuts was a PITA and I'll just go with 1/4" UNC instead.

I could only get 316 grade stainless 1/4" x 1.5" UNC. Came home and went to undo the old bolt, and its ****ing stripped! Spent a good while jiggering around and finally got the bolt to bite on the shaft after slowly prying and tapping with a screwdriver and mallet.

Put in my new SS bolts and did her up and.... still ****ing clunking. Okay, did her up uber tight... snap! Grr.



Okay so I put a new pair in there (I'm using nylock a nut). Undid U-bolts, pushed the car around, did em up. STILL CLUNKING!?! (#)$*(#$

I decided it's either the rack or some crud around the tiebar ends. Jacked her up and doused the tie bar ends in WD-40. The rack boot on the driver's side has torn, so I cleaned and tied it back up with a cable tie. Not a perfect seal, but a bit better against grit.

Cleaned the ball joints with WD-40 and a rag also. It seems grease oozes out after greasing and attracts all this grit. Its worse than 100-grit sandpaper! Wiped all that up.

Went for a drive and....... NO CLUNKING! There was nothing wrong with the pinch bolt or U-bolts all along! What a waste of time



Okay, so now I'm expecting you guys to tell me that going 316 stainless and UNC is bad and I'm gonna crash into the WTC and bring it down right?

hg.

Edit: 316 grade

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Copper 4 lyfe!

Yep, pretty much.

Stainless steel is brittle, so it doesnt wear very much but snaps without warning.
If your using a coarse thread its got less thread area to grip the nut.
Im running a high tensile coarse thread in mine, and i just keep on top of it and make it really tight, ill change it when i have to play about with the steering again.

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Simplify and add lightness

Try Auto One, Repco even Supercrap, they have blister paks of various HT bolts, but get rid of that Stainless thing.

Relax the fiddle sticks up, I'll get it changed. Even if the bloody bolt snaps, the fact that it's there locks into the groove in the splines. It's probably better than it was with the stripped threads.

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Copper 4 lyfe!

When the bolt snaps (because it is going to) the shaft will spread, the splines will jump teeth and you will lose your steering.
Fix it before you drive it. You have been warned.

I have to agree with M1100. Your steering isn't something you want to take short cuts on!

Get the right bolt for it ASAP!

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Standard bolt is a Grade 5 hi-tensile. A stock S/S 304 or 316 bolt is nowhere near the same strength.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hokai, so today I got in the car and drove 100 km's through twisty back roads at 100km/h to get to supercheap. Unfortunately, a few blocks from supercheap, the pinch bolt snapped as I was turning a corner at Sydney uni and I collected 7 students waiting to cross the road. Then I flipped and rolled under a 18-wheel petrol tanker which was on the other side. The petrol tanker jackknifed and burst into flames before hitting Centrepoint Tower. After 30mins of burning trying to be controlled by the firies, Centrepoint tower collapsed onto westpac and commonwealth bank buildings. At first they thought 9/11 was happening so they grounded all flights, but it turns out it was only a mini with broken steering. Anyways, the bank buildings collapsed and if you are with Westpac or Commbank, your credit card debt is now zero!






...



So I bought new high tensile bolts (with unthreaded shank too!) and installed them in the car. For those wondering, the sources I found say 316 stainless has 75 - 85% the tensile strength of grade 5 (metric 8..

Now, because there is a very slight clunking, only rarely, where do you think that might be coming from? Do I need new tie bar ends? Can I they be tightened? When jacked up, the steering turns lock-to-lock as smooth as a baby's bottom.

Also bought some liqui moly MoS2 engine treatment to see if I can reduce my oil burning. Idle hasn't changed, but the smoke when I give it a boot has disappeared.

* People who are going to tell me I'm a baby killer needn't bother replying.

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Copper 4 lyfe!

My bet is the rack bush (original were felt) in the LH side of rack. Jack the left side up, grab the tierod at the boot and see if it moves fore and aft.
If it does it's a rack out job, but not hard to fix.
Beware some of the aftermarket racks out there, a reconditioned Oz rack is a better bet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It could be one of a number of items but you did say earlier that the boot on the rack was torn so I'd have a bit of a guess and say the rack needs overhaul. The boot not only keep grit and crud out but also keep the OIL in........without which they do wear quickly............

See also http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=61369