Yep



& yes 850man,,, the good old Morris 1100 (4-door) had mutha-Phuker-heavy flywheels too,,, they had to do "something" to help them get up the hills

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

If your big engine has enough balls to accelerate up hills in 4th gear (mine sure does), a lightened flywheel will help this, not hinder.
Also, lightening it moves the crank's harmonics further up the rpm scale, so it's less likely to go BANG!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

dead right Doc

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Would you agree that building an engine with a specific power figure in mind isn't exactly the best way to go?

Personally - I would think that engines (and cars in general) have two defining characteristics:
- Too fast/not fast enough.
- Terrifying/not terrifying.

And the ideal combination would be too fast/not terrifying.

I'll have one of those, Matt. In orange, thanks. Preferably with a button that can make it terrifying as well, in case I get bored.

hee hee,,, yeah that`s easy MrOrange

I`d take 2x turbo Hyabusa engines & shove em into a tiny little space frame chassis (one in the front & one in the rear making it 4x4) & then show you were the "go-faster" button is

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

The button that turns the front engine on?

Seriously. Don't give me ideas.

The South Africans had a good reason to fit heavy locally made bits to their engines, (and cars) their local content rules for local production was based on weight where the Australian system was based on price.
What this meant was it was in their interest to make the heavy bits locally as weight savings on those bits would mean less room for imported bits.

In Australia it was based on total cost and if they wanted to increase local content they just needed to employ more people in the factory instead of reducing imported stuff.

To OP
I can only hazard to guess how many horses in the bonnet of the mini im trying to flog. But needless to say race spec engine + super charger + LSD = dont lose focus or let your mind wander when powering out of a corner or your crumple zone *face* could end up liberally pasted onto roadside furniture. Its one thing to have 100+ horses, its another thing being able best direct them.
Seriously, get as many HP's as you can within a decent budget, because those last HP's are going to cost a bloody fortune to get.

*PS* someone buy my bloody car!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59913

miki how much for the engine alone?

or does the car come free with the engine
(i heard that all before)

"But if your "Road" engine is already a massive torque monster, then you can afford to drop some flywheel weight.."

The point I was making is that flywheels absorb power. There are reasons to make it a specific weight but producing torque is definitely not one....

IME the lighter the better... There are a few downsides. You will need to concentrate a bit more on gearshifts (although it quickly becomes second nature) and half thickness ring gears are a little fragile - although i've only needed two in almost 20 years.

Cheers, Ian

the point i was getting at was --> effectively if you build a "Race" motor & fit a heavy flywheel then you won`t get the required result,,, (Bad miss-match) obviously "Race" donks like light flywheels & zippy gearing etc etc

But a "Road" motor doesn`t really "Need" & quite often doesn`t "Like" an ultra-lightweight flywheel,,, but smaller capacity "Road" engines can certainly do with a heavier one to help keep the rotation happening for hillclimbing ability on the road,,, for "Road" use,,, you can leave it in the taller gear & just torque it up the hills -->instead of going back down the gears reving it ,,,

If someone were to build a "small-capacity Race" motor & use it on the road,,, then i`d say they`re silly nongs cause they`re just crap for normall daily driving,,, simple as that!!!

rip out the lumpy cam & throw on a std or even heavier flywheel & see the noticable increase in use-able power & leave it in the taller gears ,,, far more civilised engine for "Road" use

sorry if i wasn`t clear about it before

Now ,,, what may confuse a lot of people here is where a whole lot of people try to build (what i call) a """Compromise""" engine,,, may as well call them ""Rally"" engines, & they try to run them on the road,,, in that case a light flywheel would benefit (somewhat) but still,,, my point there is that the "Package" isn`t as sweet to drive as a less cammy engine with heavier flywheel

i`m a big fan of the saying --> "Horses for Courses"

this is just another example of that

sorry to blabber but seems i`ve been a little confusing to some

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

the mass of the flywheel will change the momentum of the engine. a heavy flywheel will give the engine more torque but the engine will take longer for the same increase of rpm.
The mass of the flywheel/driven componets will not effect the torsional vibration calcs of the crankshaft as much as the increase of effective mean firing pressure and ignition timing.
Try running a engine with more fuel and at 15 : 1 comp and advanced timing. Bigger bang in the cyl. The bits will break a lot quicker than a mass altered flywheel.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

This is probably a bit off topic. But Matt - I've seen your R1 buggy and it's got quite a few mini bits in the front of it.

Hypothetically, if you were designing a hillclimb/sprint Mini and disregarded all things including class restrictions, road legality and all sense of personal safety, how hard would it be to just put an R1/Hayabusa engine in it transversely mounted and driving the front wheels?

Assuming all the other things - cage/brakes/suspension etc. are up to it, would you just need a custom subframe etc? It must be harder than that, because I haven't seen one (in Oz) yet. I imagine it would be much easier to build a hillclimb special like yours, because you'd probably be in the same class anyway, however the idea of doing a Mini the same way amuses me...

Z Cars do a kit for that. Plus a few more i cant remember off the top of my head.

And its all any engine conversion is. Just modify the subframe to fit, line up your driveshafts and sort the electrics.

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Simplify and add lightness