The valance panels are always rusty and you will need to replace it with a non-genuine panel. It is a pity that the non-genuine panel is two foot longer than the original but hey! What can you do.

You could get away with a slight modification but not a major one. As long as there is no other Minis parked nearby that they can look at.

I could fake some rust holes and they'll think it's just a normal Mini part just rusting away like the rest of the car.

_________________

I trust you're talking about the van here. Longer, more aerodynamic?

Moon discs and rear spats would certainly 'look' faster. Add a coat of matt black and she'd go down a storm on the salt.

Madmorrie

I know I have pics of a Mini Mania Salt Racer somewhere

yer okay its a 1275..but I know you can get something from this
http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I did learn a couple of things from that.
Hmmm, a 6 speed box.
I wonder how much faster it would have been if they could make a 7 speed?

more gears = more weight + more rotating mass + more oil-pumping losses between the gears teeth = more loss of power

one over drive gear is enough,,,, "IF" you have the power to turn all that extra gear ratio,,, dont` see an 850 having enough power to turn a 3.4f/d ratio let alone an overdrive sorry

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

So tell me. What would a race spec 998 engine get... in terms of HP. This wont be too far bellow in capacity.

_________________

Good race 998 = Well over 100HP at the crank.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

100hp at the crank would get me to my target... surely...

_________________

Lionel Ayers & i helped set up a formula Junior donk for an old fella,,, his name escapes me atm,,, damn my brain just doesn`t work at the best of times these days,,, lucky we didn`t fit a heavy flywhjeel to the damn thing hey? ,,, ah,,, er,,, i`ll remember his name in a minute,,, i`ll edit this later with his name

anyways,,, This "Old-flella" was harrasing me for ages to do his cyl head for him & i was sooo busy at the time (lifting my house up) that i decided i`d help,, butt,,, what i did was show Lionel what i "Normally" do to small bore heads to make them work,,, anyways, Lionel did a fantasic job & the engine dyno that it was run-up on showed 120 at the crank

now i firmly believe that this particular engine dyno was a bit,,, er,,, ah,,, i shall say """Light-on"'" (maybe not, butt i havn`t seen numbers like that on any small bore before) so it may not have been "exactly" 120hp,,, but still,,,, this particular formula junior has recently traveled the world chasing the formula junior race series winning just about everything it raced in



But hey,,, thay`re just small bores

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

100mp/h is supposedly possible from an 850

_________________

Just seal up the roll cage & pump it full of NOS, & pipe it into the under-side of the manifold

they won`t notice

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

The aerodynamics are probably the most important factor at high speed. When you're starting, it counts for nothing. I heard that the bugatti vayron needs 250hp to stay steady at 300km/h, but over 1000hp at 400km/h. As said earlier, doubling speed quadruples friction.

I've done dome work at uni with model solar cars, and found that about 2/3 of the power of one of these model solar cars at fulls speed is used on air friction. A petrol car will naturally have more drivetrain losses, but they're also a lot less aerodynamic - I think a standard roundnose mini has friction coefficient of about 0.45 - 0.48. Not to mention a squarenose...

The NT - adelaide solar cars can have coeffients as low as 0.1. But they need to be road legal, and adding the exterior rear-vision mirrors DOUBLES the friction coefficient.

hence why they`re called "Bricks"

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

The last edition of MiniWorld that I saw on the shelf had an article where they spent a day in the MIRA wind tunnel... They said 0.58CD, and did a few tests to test how they could reduce drag and lift. Might be worth a look..? I'm guessing they've gone further than you can in the regs, but still... It was interesting.