Nah it's fine, if I ever rebuild it I still have a std/std mint 998 crank, and I'll stick +.100" flat tops in it.. then rev its tits off.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I also said the same thing Matt but he has other ideas for the exjam motor..Thanks Thou Matt

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

that's really cool - nice break

when something breaks, it is a bit annoying, and when it's happening continually, it gets very annoying - but when something really fails completely, you can't help but be impressed

Amazing, i would have thought the extra load from #1 to #2 big end journal to web would have created a 3rd piece, if you know what i mean, no support for #1 would have stressed #2 in a bad way.
The photos would have been so much more impressive if that happened

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

All that extra load did was put a wear line on the very edge of the centre main bearing.
The block (and all the rest) is still fine...

She drove to work very gently, then towed it home... otherwise we would be looking at another block, I'm sure.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Smart lady, my wife sometimes notices strange noises before i do

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

wow i didnt realise these cranks were so weak?

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

hey they`re all getting soooo old these days,,, just imagine how many miles that thing has done throughout it`s life,,, just imagine how many "over-revs" it`s taken,,, just imagine how many oil changes it "didn`t" get when it wa supposed to

ALL mini cranks are susceptable to this sort of thing,,, it`s not just the 1100 ones (altho in my eyes they are one of the weakest)

we all get old & cracky,,, er ar cranky,,, hee hee,,,

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

So what value do you put on crack testing, regrinding (with a good journal radius) and balancing, then submitted to 7000 rpm like my 1100?

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

yep,,, good value

i just did a "Ding" test on my own 998cc twinky,,, Just a good looking 2nd hand 998 crank out of some piece of crap 2nd hand 998 donk out of the pile i have here,,, cleaned it up, shoved it in ,,, runs to 8000rpms happilly,,, it`ll probly go bang now i said that

EDIT---> OH & just so no one gets the wrong impression,,, i allways make sure that my customers cranks get the very best treatment before i fit them,.,,, if any of them are suspect in any way i grab another... I`m actually quite anal about quality of cranks in my customers motors.

I can be quite casual about my own cranks tho,,, crickey i`d never even think of fitting an .080 undersize crank into anyones engine but my own & even that thing is still a runner

Double edit--> crap,,, bet i`vce just hexed myself now i said that,,, i better shut up before all my cranks go bang

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Crack test them if there is any doubt. I have seen a 1275 crank pass the `ding' test with a crack through the centre web.
I use a dyecheck kit, but many crank grinders use black light fluorescent.
Either system will show surface cracks.

I've seen 850, 997, 1098 and 1275 cranks break, but not a 998. I reckon those are pretty tough.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.