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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 4:31 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 11:54 am
Posts: 107
belts are just fine when they:

1) are of good quality to begin with
2) are well-lifed
3) are kept oil-free

there were some chinky belts that were crap(surprise !!!) and gave belts a bad name. Some people think they are 100,000 parts and some people and/or kits allow oil to get on to the belts without stopping the leak AND replacing the belts. Purchased wisely, the belts cost next to nothing and it is a serious false economy to leave them on an engine for too long.

Racers in England use belts mostly and the fastest engines use belts without problems.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 7:45 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
So, how often do people change these Mini belts over there? (on a road car).
I have a Pirelli one that's done 40,000 miles, no marks on it but it won't be refitted.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 2:22 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 11:54 am
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the frequency with which people change beltsvaries all over the place. Partly it depends upon whether or not they are mechanically sympathetic and understand things well enough to know the bad consequences of a belt failure. It also depends upon whether or not they have to pay to have the belt replaced. Belts are very cheap, so the job is cheap for a DIY. The Pirelli are good quality and are used in most race applications in the UK.
Belts are probably not the best choice for those who are mechanically challenged or are careless about their car maintenance. Belt users have to check their engine periodically for oil leakage into the belt area and they have to be serious about lifing the belt to something reasonable. They also have to make sure that the person replacing the belt knows which belts are of good quality and which aren't. Not all drivers are up to this discipline and they should probably stick to chains which are more forgiving of poor Mini ownership.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:15 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:40 pm
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Location: wasleys S.A.
have a look at goodyear's wesite on the new belt design they have.
it's "eagle NRG helical offset tooth" belt. basically a "herringbone"type helical gear that runs a belt. The belt compounds and construction are between 25%-40% stronger than a std HTD belt.
The design does not need a tight running tensioner and the will run higher RPM. They also have a full range of pullys in 6061 T6 alloy and steel to suit.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 10:24 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Progress:
The NOS Triger timing belt and pulleys are trial assembled on the 1412 stroker with a standard cam key. Inlet timing is now at 109° ATDC so it needs a 5° offset key.
I've ordered a variety in from Minispares UK (cheaper), they come in handy for doing other people's engine builds. 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:22 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
NOS cam belt kit is now on the 1412 stroker, with a 5° offset cam key.
Belt is the Pirelli original in the kit. When it gets to 30-40,000 miles, I have a Gates kevlar one for it.

Image
Image

I've Blinged the belt cover with Gafmo's CHROME paint, but it's still drying.
Pic tomorrow. :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:39 pm 
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998cc
998cc
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Joined: Wed May 09, 2007 7:26 pm
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Location: GerMini
Looking at this; couldn't you lighten that with some holes? :) Looks(!) like there's plenty of meat...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:49 pm 
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Yeah you could drill it a bit, however there is a BIG diameter seal behind it, and if you drill right through, the oilz will come out. People have been caught before! :lol:
Actually it's not that heavy anyway, it's hollow inside. :wink:
Also, it's only running at 1/2 crank speed so weight matters 1/2 as much.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:24 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Cover on-

Image

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:43 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 11:11 pm
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Location: Baulkham Hills
that came up really good Dr..Whats the brand on that can again

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 7:30 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
gafmo wrote:
that came up really good Dr..Whats the brand on that can again


plasti-kote `BRILLIANT CHROME' 613 fast dry acrylic

Made in USA
Agent here is Master Distributors P/L Oakleigh Vic

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 2:38 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
More Bling..
I decided that since I have an MED race harmonic balancer, I may as well use it.

[edit] There will be a couple of weeks delay now- the old Cooper S hub inside the MED balancer is a bit loose on the crank, so I need a new one. I'm waiting for Minis Plus to get more stock in.

Image
Image

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Fri Apr 02, 2010 6:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 7:11 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 11:11 pm
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Location: Baulkham Hills
Love it very 8) one day Ill get two :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 7:41 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
very Aussie Doc,,, green & gold :-)

& amazed you had found colour matched by-pass hose & clamps :-)

But please get rid of those annoying allen head bolts from the fuel pump blanking plate,,, crickey i have a hatered for allen head bolts on mini donks (sorry) they should never have been invented,,, it`s the work of the devil i tell you,,, the devil,,, get rid of them before it`s too late mate :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:09 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
You might notice I have them holding the balancer together too.
GR supplied them, they must be OK.
At least they are better steel than most hex head bolts on a Mini donk. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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