Hey Marcello, might be a good idea to PM Boyracer - he had a whole pile of issues with his SPI, bought the diagnostic kit and all. I think the crank sensor thing was something he had to fix. Can't find any posts on it now though

Although he might not reply that quick as he's on here much less since he sold his car.

EEEK... sorry guys didnt want to generate a heated debate...!!

Although having said that, i am very appreciative of your advice and help. All of the things that you have mentioned are unfortunately way out of my knowledge band so i am hoping something works tomorrow during the BBQ!

Failing all of that, i will be starting a bucket for donations for a Starlet conversion or something equally more exciting....



PS Beer fridge is full, BBQ is clean and food fridge is chockers of BBQ things. Come one come all... Lets get her started..!!!!!!!

"Gentlemen, (let's) start the engine"..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Maybe you should buy all my old EFI gear...
computers, sensors, throttle bodies etc...
all going cheap(job lot $1000)
before i finish clearing out my old shop???

_________________
Miniworx Centre 0883741299
Sooperdooperminicooperexpertengineering
Online BMW Mini Shop

As tempting as that sounds, I doubt i would know what to do with most of it...!! Once this girl is up on the road and registered, I am pretty sure she will be up for sale to te highest bidder. I want to go back to old school where air conditioning meant opening the windows a little further, where wiring diagrams consist of 4 colours, where changing gears is like stirring a pudding and where on board computers meant i was taking my lap top to work....... ahh Morris 850 here i come...

Hope all goes well today

Dicko

Still NFG.
1. Yes, starter turns engine over. But battery is pretty low.
2. Only getting 7.75V at coil whilst cranking. (but it's a 1.5 ohm coil, should spark at this voltage).
3. NO sparks at plugs (yes, plugs are dry).
4. Pulled primary wires off coil except 12V feed, hooked a grounded spark plug to the coil HT lead, and a flying lead to the [-] terminal. Flashed it to ground, NO sparks at all at plug.
5. Suspect coil (it's ~1.3 ohm). Fitted a new GT40R coil, did same test, got a weak spark. (would be fatter if I'd hooked a condenser up for test)
6. Hooked all the wiring up again, cranked engine, NO sparks at all at plug.
7. Hooked up Tiny's battery out of the van, cranks better, got 9V at coil now whilst cranking, but still no spark.

Obviously there an electronics problem somewhere.
I think we need a Rover sparky guru (does one exist in Sydney??)

No wonder people in UK convert to a carby and a real dizzy.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If the engine turns over but fails to fire, first check the inertial switch. This switch some times has a tendency to trip when you have hit a sharp bump or pot hole. Its purpose is to stop the fuel pump spurting fuel all over the show in the event of an accident. Press the center of the top down to reset. It is the black thing that looks like a relay near the wiper motor, will be near to other yellow relay's.
If the crank position sensor is bad or dirty, there will be no spark or injection.
This is the sensor behind the starter motor, pull it out give it clean and put it back in.
If still no spark a new sensor in required, I have a spare one here you can try if you want.
Also if there are bad earth's this will have the same effect, the is an earth point on both sides of the engine bay.
Cheers Pete

_________________
A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE

oh pete... why didnt you come over for the BBQ today..!!!!!!

Tiny (Joe) had a bit more of a go when you left Kevin and it was to no avail....

I am getting her taken away and asking for her not to come back until she is fixed.

P.s. Please note new thread on issue with Moke.................. URRRRRRRRRRRRRRGH these cars

ps Kev, Joe and Steve... thank you very very much for your help...

you need a coil with 0.7 to 0.8 ohm (@20°C)

the internia switch is a problem, but not only the switch, very often the wire to the switch is broken. easiest test, turn on the ignition, the pump should run for some seconds. quite easy to hear.

but with no spark and dry plugs i suspect the crankshaft sensor. maybe you are lucky and its only a corroded connector, its the one close to the upper starter screw.

_________________
Rover 214 atm ....

OK sorry to bring up an old thread, but she still wont start

I have now been guided to the module in the dizzy being fried. Is this possible...? I have read through the manual i have for this car but cant seem to find anything referred to as a module....

Inertia switch was ok. With ignition, the fuel pump whirs away for a bit and then stops so I am presuming from this that the pump and fuel supply is ok.

Does anyone have a picture of what the crankshaft sensor looks like? What is this connected to? I am starting to think that maybe the wiring to this sensor may have burned out and hence this sensor is not receiving power full stop.... is this a possibiloity?

Email sent Iwannamini

I too have a rover, and they can be quite finnicky if everything is not just right with all of the sensors, vacuum lines etc etc.

By far the easiest way to work out what is wrong is to plug it into a fault code reader. I have one here in Adelaide (no good to you), but I think I know of two in Sydney....

Steve from Brickworx sold his to John Schmit at Mini King I think, and user 'Boyracer' on this forum sold his to another mini workshop over there. Try to send him a PM to see where that one is.

These diagnostic tools are the only way to tune a rover. Even if only the idle speed is adjusted by hand, it confuses the computer. The tools go through a process of testing all vital relays, the injector, the inlet manifold pressure (once started), and will tell you where in the system any problems are. It also allows the stepper motor on the throttle position sensor to be set to obtain the correct idle speed.

Boyracer replaced all of the sensors and vacuum lines in his car before he finally fixed the crank angle sensor, a very expensive process for him. Then he bought the code reader!

The only thing that the fault code reader does not tell you about is the lost motion gap on the throttle position actuator. This needs to be set by hand. Look on the UK mini forum for a how to on your automatic.

Good luck.

_________________
1964 Morris "Cooper S" Group Nb Racer
1965 Morris 850
ex 1967 Morris Cooper S
ex 1969 Morris Van (Rover SPI running gear)

_________________
A recent study found the average Aussie walks about 900 miles a year
Another study found Aussies drink, on average, 22 gallons of alcohol a year
That means, on average, Australians get about 41 miles per gallon

Kind of makes you proud to be an AUSSIE