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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 4:58 pm 
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1275cc
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simon k wrote:
rehab1964 wrote:
simon k wrote:
david rosenthal wrote:
I have finished the basic fit up to the engine which is a 1275 block [-060" O/S] and fitted with 998 crank. The pistons have arrived so when I get home I can get it re-bored to 73mm and with 76mm stroke and SC14 blower it should be interesting.


now you're talking!! :D :D


sorry to be thick.... what happens when you fit a 998 crank in a 1275?


big bore, short stroke like a motorbike engine. It'll be capable of very high rpm, which will really take advantage of the big volume blower (and breathing capacity of the bike head, David?)

73mm pistons on a standard 81.3mm stroke (1275) gives 1360cc, 73mm pistons on a 76mm stroke gives 1272cc - less capacity, but more capability when used in the right "package" (to quote Matt Read)


thanks Simon, so I'm guessing it also allows a lower compression ration for the 'charger too (do they need a lower compression ration like turbos?)

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:12 pm 
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rehab1964 wrote:
simon k wrote:
rehab1964 wrote:
simon k wrote:
david rosenthal wrote:
I have finished the basic fit up to the engine which is a 1275 block [-060" O/S] and fitted with 998 crank. The pistons have arrived so when I get home I can get it re-bored to 73mm and with 76mm stroke and SC14 blower it should be interesting.


now you're talking!! :D :D


sorry to be thick.... what happens when you fit a 998 crank in a 1275?


big bore, short stroke like a motorbike engine. It'll be capable of very high rpm, which will really take advantage of the big volume blower (and breathing capacity of the bike head, David?)

73mm pistons on a standard 81.3mm stroke (1275) gives 1360cc, 73mm pistons on a 76mm stroke gives 1272cc - less capacity, but more capability when used in the right "package" (to quote Matt Read)


thanks Simon, so I'm guessing it also allows a lower compression ration for the 'charger too (do they need a lower compression ration like turbos?)


yeah, it would, but I think you'd still need to machine a heap off the top of the block


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:53 pm 
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848cc
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Or you could make the rods longer :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 7:05 pm 
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A nice set of 6" Carrillos would probably do it. 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 10:54 pm 
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848cc
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Maybe my brain isn't working properly tonight...

But aren't 998 main journals smaller than 1275? If so how are you getting around this? If not just ignore me :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 4:45 am 
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miniobsessed wrote:
Maybe my brain isn't working properly tonight...

But aren't 998 main journals smaller than 1275? If so how are you getting around this? If not just ignore me :wink:


Yes, they are. The bore centres are also different, so a rod with a different off-set would also be needed.

I'm sure Dave has a plan in mind.

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Last edited by GT mowog on Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:42 am 
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1098cc
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the block has half circle inserts pinned into place with 2 new oil holes drilled for extra supply. The 1275 caps have wider bolt centers so I am fitting new steel caps at 1,750" bore. These will overlap the half circle inserts and help hold them in place. The base of the block and the gear box have 1mm machined off to take up the thickness of the dry sump plate [2mm]. The 1mm off the block will allow the main brgs to be line bored to std 1.750" brgs.
The std design front cap is used, the rear has recess for seal and the center cap is full curve to mount sump onto.
As for conrods I am making new steel ones to take the gudeon pins and at the new length for comp ratio. I am looking at around 7:1 and running around 30PSI boost.
This eng is just a experimental one and IF !!!!!! it works them the next one is going to have full roller bearing billet steel crank.
There are some split precission metric rollers available so I might re-machine brg caps/crank and try these.
Just a mad idea,but you never know until you have a go.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 1:15 pm 
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david rosenthal wrote:
the block has half circle inserts pinned into place with 2 new oil holes drilled for extra supply. The 1275 caps have wider bolt centers so I am fitting new steel caps at 1,750" bore. These will overlap the half circle inserts and help hold them in place. The base of the block and the gear box have 1mm machined off to take up the thickness of the dry sump plate [2mm]. The 1mm off the block will allow the main brgs to be line bored to std 1.750" brgs.
The std design front cap is used, the rear has recess for seal and the center cap is full curve to mount sump onto.
As for conrods I am making new steel ones to take the gudeon pins and at the new length for comp ratio. I am looking at around 7:1 and running around 30PSI boost.
This eng is just a experimental one and IF !!!!!! it works them the next one is going to have full roller bearing billet steel crank.
There are some split precission metric rollers available so I might re-machine brg caps/crank and try these.
Just a mad idea,but you never know until you have a go.


clever man :D


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:41 pm 
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david rosenthal wrote:
This eng is just a experimental one and IF !!!!!! it works them the next one is going to have full roller bearing billet steel crank.
There are some split precission metric rollers available so I might re-machine brg caps/crank and try these.
Just a mad idea,but you never know until you have a go.


Mmm...I do love those mad ideas.......

Cooper Split Bearings??? What would you do for the lubriction system? It would require a fair bit of re-work as the 'standard' parts of the engine would require a high / moderate pressure with moderate / low flow characteristics, where as the rollers would want low pressure / high volume?

Again, I don't doubt that you would have a plan (fully roller bearing the engine top to bottom?)

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 10:55 am 
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1098cc
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GT mowog wrote:
david rosenthal wrote:
This eng is just a experimental one and IF !!!!!! it works them the next one is going to have full roller bearing billet steel crank.
There are some split precission metric rollers available so I might re-machine brg caps/crank and try these.
Just a mad idea,but you never know until you have a go.


Mmm...I do love those mad ideas.......

Cooper Split Bearings??? What would you do for the lubriction system? It would require a fair bit of re-work as the 'standard' parts of the engine would require a high / moderate pressure with moderate / low flow characteristics, where as the rollers would want low pressure / high volume?

Again, I don't doubt that you would have a plan (fully roller bearing the engine top to bottom?)


The brgs are split needle rollers. The two halves have a shoulder to locate on the needles so lateral location is precise. The clearance is only a few thou and they have oil feed in both inner and outer cages.
The one for the center main is a needle roller with thrust either side[needle] . When I get home I will give you the part No. and dimensions, and I should have a price on a full set. This will determin whether I use them.

As for oil pressure with the T/C set-up with std oil pump, the problem I have is way too much oil flow with std relief V/V spring.

The blower,head and main/bigends will all be pressure fed but with the dry sump set-up the oil tank will be fabricated into the front of the sub frame behind the valance panel. This will position it lower than the sump base and the drain will be gravity feed into tank. No need for a scavange pump.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 4:43 pm 
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1275cc
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Geez David, when i asked about the 5 speed i had no idea about what else was going on there.

If you are going to such a lot of trouble, and especially heading down the billet crank route, did you think about making it a 5 main bearing setup to eliminate the crank whipping problems inherent in the A-series 3 main design?

I have thought about what it would take to do that, but not bothered to go and measure anything. Seems like you are already a part of the way there....

cheers
michael

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 11:24 pm 
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kuzzy wrote:
I'd be happy to test the box under a Nc race engine - just to test the durability hehehehe


Test yeah...but Nc Regs aren't that loose are they :shock: :D

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