I've pulled off the steering rack in my rebuild and have some new boots to go on but was wondering what recommendations there are to grease the rack/teeth before I put the boots on.

Is there a specific kind of grease I should be using and how much?
Is there a certain spot in the rack which needs more grease than another?
Should I avoid getting grease on/in certain areas?

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

Later racks had grease in them, but the factory recommendation is to put 90/140 gear oil in there. Grease wasn't a great idea back then, it all went hard.
The book says (sort-of) `Jack up RH side of car. Point wheels straight. Undo the small clamp from the RH boot. Pump 200mL of gear oil in there with a pump action oil can. Replace boot clamp'.
You can do this even if there's grease in there now, it won't hurt.

90/140 is pretty hard to find in shops now, so I use 85/90 EP [edit] gear oil.

I'm repairing a heap of racks at the moment for a well-known NSW Mini parts shop.

[edit] If putting oil in there you should use the original style boot clamps onto the rack, not cable ties. Ties are fine on the tierods though.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm using 130 monograde diff oil

Gear oil eh?

There was NO oil in the rack when I took it off/apart and not much grease. It's the usual story ... It's a wonder that it even worked properly

[Edit] I was going to ask about cable-ties & leaks but you've just answered that too!

_________________
-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

Whats the best way to tell if you need to replace your steering rack when it and the subframe are out of the car?

Cheers
Dave

put in a vice, grab hold of the left tie rod end and see if it moves back & forth, in and out - push & pull on it hard as you can

put a steering column on the pinion and wiggle the steering wheel and find free play by grabbing different bits and making sure nothing moves independently

1. grab the LH end through the boot and see if you can move it around radially. If so the bush inside is knackered.
2. Do the same test with the RH end, if it moves at all the Belleville conical washers are broken.
3. Turn the pinion shaft and watch the tierods- if they rotate much at all when you turn L-R, the rack pad needs reshimming.

Personally, I'd strip it for a looksee..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

As added insurance against leaks I smear Loctite 515 Master Gasket between the rack and boot, then fit the clamp.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I use semi-fluid grease, it is best by far but hard to buy now. This is the same stuff often recommended for old steering boxes and track rollers. It will even take the nonsense out of a slightly worn L/H rack bush.

Al

Thanks guys, will follow those tips and see how I go.

Most parts needed to repair these racks (Oz ones made here by Cam Gears) are still available from Karcraft, Mini King, and others.
The felt bush is now replaced by a Lurethane one with a hexagonal bore.
These parts do NOT fit UK made racks.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Kev,
The replacement bush for UK built racks is also red Urethane with a hexagonal bore.

Regards
Al

Watch the diameters though- there is a red Lurethane one (Nolathane 41039) for Oz racks (which are bigger diameter than UK- ours are a short 1100 rack). There is also a blue Oz one (same bush, just a different maker).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep, as usual the doc is right, use oil. what ever is thickest you can buy. The original oil was about the consistency of honey straight from the fridge.

A good tip is to put a dab of silicone oil/silicone grease on the tierod where the narrow diameter of the boot rests. This helps the boot spin on the tie rod when doing wheel alignments

Whilst you have a rack and pinion in pieces its good insurance to crack test the components, dye penetrant method works well.

You used to work for a steering component manufacturer didn't you?

Lots of good advice in the posts from diecast and drmini.