Taken from the same web site;-

Warning!
These pages are NOT to be taken as gospel.

and

This "study" is not a "test".

Hmmm...............................

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These days, filters is filters- even Ryco are now made in China. So are many of the rest (Z-418 equivalent) sold here.
I've not seen any local study done.

Most US investigations I've read about filter quality (of manufacture) of those available there, concluded that the Fram is made el cheapo, for the rest there really ain't much to choose between `em.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The fact that the magnets help to capture more than a filter on its own is more than enough proof for me that the magnets are helping.

The less crap in the oil the better right?

I often wondered about putting another sump plug in at the other end of the box just to capture more crap. How easy would it be to do?

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

I had a look around that site but couldn't find a page specifying their filtration specifications. I must have missed something, could you tell me where the information is?



It's 'thick' (less viscous I assume) at room temperature, but when it's hot it thins right out.

Of curiosity, do the metal filing only surround the magnet or will the whole filter can be magnetised and attract things? That's a fair amount of surface area if it does.

An easy way to solve the 'is it practicle' question of a magnet would be to put a magnet or two on the pipe leading out of the filter. Theoretically if the filter has done its job there won't be anything to catch.

The info on the K&N Filters may not be on their website.

Even when hot (and seeming thinner) no partical could move through the oil at at rate that even come close to matching it's flow. If it could, then the oil would fail to do one of it's primary functions - 'float' the crankshaft on a film of oil. It cannot be both.

The example I put up (as stated) was generous and worked on the premise that the entire filter was magnetised.

Magnetising the lead in pipe (to the filter) would work better (less surface area).....

BUT........

What happens when it gathers a lot of material?

How do you clean it?

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Take the pipe off, pull the magnet off and flush it with clean oil.

Yes, that would be the best way to clean it.

BUT, what happens when it gathers a lot of material?

It won't block. Most of the material will be flushed in to the filter.

<EDIT> There would be no detriment to fitting magnets, apart from wasting your time and good magnets doing so.

As I say, if it makes your body parts go hard fitting magnets, go for it

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I know how to solve that - just put a magnet on the outside of the filter too!

While commercial and have a product to sell take a look at
http://www.filtermag.net.au/

They will even do an oil diagnosis for you(i think they call it a filtergram), to show you what sort of particles are flowing around in your oil.

Sure a better filter will do a better job , but i'd still considering running something along this line anyway.

This whole thread (I think) started on the premise of putting a rare earth magnet on the outside of a spin-on filter can.
The magnetic field is sufficient to pass through the filter can and hold ferrous `fines' to the inside, behind the magnet.
It does NOT magnetize the whole filter.
Unlike the Magnom magnet sandwich adaptor sold in the UK (which does the same thing- grabbing ferrous particles), you don't have to clean anything out when you change the filter.
I put one magnet directly below the inlet pipe near the bottom, and another on the other side. They hold themselves on like a limpet mine, and when you change the filter you bin all the collected crap with it.

You just have to remember to bung the same old magnets onto the new filter.

Sure there is a magnet on the sump plug, but it doesn't collect everything.
With magnets on the filter, it collects a damned sight less fine stuff.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeh, I agree with the good Doc on this one...

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May the fork be with you.

I think the basic point of putting the magnets on the outside of the filter is that:

a/ the magnets are cheap, and it's an extra 10 seconds when changing the oil
b/ keeping 'some' particles out of the filter paper 'might' mean that the filter becomes less blocked in between changes, so maybe a bit less pressure loss

if it's a pointless exercise, then so be it - there's no need to argue the merits of using a magnet, buying a better filter, different devices, or otherwise

... c. You only need to buy 1 or 2 magnets, it's not a repeat buy.

OK we've done this one to death, let's start on lead replacement additives...

Flashlube works for me.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

no additive, just hardened seats

you know what would be cool, if I could get some flashlube to run into one carb, but not into the other, then next time I get the valves done I could have quantifiable evidence!

I got quantifiable evidence, I ran a 1098 rebuilt head for 6 months with NO additive. As expected, the hot exhaust valves pulled iron particles out of the cast iron head. The dreaded valve seat recession.
OTOH, my 1360's iron head seats stay shiny with Flashlube.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.