Hi

getting two different views here

swan neck manifold good or bad?

and are su's better/easier than dellorto/webber?

cheers

Depends on what you call a `swan neck' and what motor it's going onto.
If you mean the real `lynx' Weber swan neck, it's not that bad on a smallbore but is useless on a 1275 or bigger.
If you mean the Redline 3005 (and the previous Warneford, same manifold) I'd call them short, but not swan neck. They are pretty good on a road car, can handle up to 125HP with a 45DCOE or 45DHLA when ported properly. I run one on the 1360...
They will fit in (including a Ramflo filter) with no firewall cutting.

As for SU vs Weber it depends what you want. You can get good power with either, but the music only comes with a Weber (or Dellorto).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

http://www.spridgetmania.com/web/SCatag ... ticleV.cfm

this may help....if you follow along it shows the different manifold readings on a flow bench, a pretty interesting read too

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one van, one mini s, one knitted cardigan

I'm no expert but I've got a redline 3005 manifold with a weber on a 1275 and it's a cracker. Induction roar is definitely a feature.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

"Induction roar is definitely a feature."

Yeah, that's why I haven't bothered putting a stereo in my car! It's even worse / better now while I have the sound deadening out to start the resto. It is definitely something to consider though, my missus won't get in the car now and on long drives my mates reckon they will go deaf!

I was running the original twin SU's and was continuously having to adjust or fix them. Since putting in the 45 Weber I haven't had to touch it. I'll keep the SU's in the shed just in case originality beocmes a priority later. At least with the redline manifold I havent had to cut the firewall.

Thanks again to the Doc for his advice along the way, it all worked well.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

ok, my view, if you want power and go, go the webber or dellorto, but if u want just a nice neat package go the su's, but bear in mind unless its a very good motor with good high specs, you wont get as much power with a su, as u would with a webber or dellorto. also u wont get that nice sucking sound like a webber does, and you will be continuelly tuning the su, and its mixture.. Depends wat u want mate....

A lynx swan neck manifold is the way to go on ur small bore if you dont to cut into the firewall...

It comes down to what you really want outta your motor...

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

start nitpick



I don't think that is at all true. Once an SU is set you barely ever have to touch it apart from checking the dashpot oil.

A lot of people pour crap on SUs but in reality they are an excellent carb, only bettered by the weber/dellorto if you are chasing all-out power. They will even give you induction roar if that's what floats-yer-boat, but not in the same class of roar as a weber

cheers

Jacob

end nitpick

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

My Cooper S with 45 Weber on Warneford manifold with Brownriggs and Cooper S Lukey single box....sound to die for.

By comparison my van with HIF44 on an Oselli with Maniflow2 and two box RC40 sounds comparatively lame (although much better than any ricer).

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Well i find that here in QLD where the temperatures change all the time of the year, the car always will like to be adjusted now and again with SU's, also due to the wear of the engine, they like to be tweeked, especially if they are being used for daily drivers like me, and long distance driving.

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

SUs I believe do not deserve this unreliable and in need of constant tuning reputation.
The thing with SUs is that they are mostly very old and the problem is that they continue to perform quite well when worn out.
In good condition once tuned there nothing to adjust.

By that logic any mechanical fuel delivering system must be adjusted to suit the conditions. This includes all carburettors, weber, su, stromberg. The only way around this is fuel injection.

The biggest problem is people not getting them set up on a rolling road and having the whole package working together. How many cars do you see with bigger carbs, a lumpy cam, a bit of head work then a stock dizzy?

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Simplify and add lightness

This would be a problem with any carb motor, it is just you can adjust a SU easily.

Doh! MG beat me to it.

I'm a Qld-er too and used minis for daily and/or long driving, summer or winter.

As MG said once the worn bits are replaced and it's tuned correctly, they are simply great! No pump-jets, venturi tubes, idle circuits, etc just simplicity!

If folks are looking down the weber/dellorto route to cure tuning hassles, they've made a wrong turn somewhere!

cheers

Jacob

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'72 Clubman Van - 1022cc, 295 head, 731 cam - Daily Driver
'69 Morris 1100 S - Dinged by a bus, in shed under repair
'64 Morris 1100 - Early 1100, long term project

I've had a 45 Dellorto and Redline 3005 on my 1360 for 15 years.
I put a kit in it 10 years ago.
Apart from fitting smaller main jets since last dyno day I've not touched it for years.
This includes the idle stop screw, and the idle mixture screws. It idles and runs fine, summer or winter.
It ain't broke, so I ain't fixing it.

But...
The 1412 stroker is going in it in a couple of weeks, and it's getting a single HS6 on a RE7" manifold.
Why? Because it made the same HP on the dyno as the 45 Dellorto did, but with lots more midrange torque.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.