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 Post subject: Engine Rebuild Time
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 6:21 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 9:52 am
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Location: Clifton Springs, Victoria
G'day fellow mini lovers,

The time has come to rebuild the engine in my beloved little car, so I thought I would check with you for a list of the bits and pieces that I'm going to need.

I reckon I need the following - feel free to add to the list as there's bound to be stuff that I'll forget.

*Gaskets
*Gasket cement, Locktite etc
*New locking/spider washers for the cam end plate
*New pistons - not yet sure of what oversize
*teflon plugs to ensure the gudgeon pin cir-clips stay in place - if they're still available
*New welch plugs
*New oil pump
*New cam followers - maybe. Depends on their condition and if a cam re-grind is needed

I'll be using a different 1100 block to the one currently in the car, as a gudgeon pin cir-clip disintegrated a year or so ago and one bore is horribly scored. Planning on using the existing head with just a clean up of the valves etc The gear-box is fine and the clutch too but will check these when it's all apart.

Sounds easy doesn't it

:)

Hooroo

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 6:22 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2005 2:17 pm
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Location: Brisvegas
Don't forget GR 100 thou pistons ;-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 6:23 pm 
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1275cc
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Wow....that was a quick reply!

Yep, GR's stuff is good.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 11:11 pm
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Location: Baulkham Hills
Crank & Rod Bearings & I would say Timming Chain and Oil Pump

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:01 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Geelong, Victoria
It all should be a good engine other than the stuffed bore?

Get a nice cam grind while ya at it. ;)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:09 am 
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998cc
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Location: Clifton Springs, VIC
poeee wrote:
Get a nice cam grind while ya at it. ;)

My sentiments exactly. Go on Rod you know you want to.........
BTW the teflon buttons actually replace those dreaded circlips.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:47 am 
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Karcraft have engine 'kits'. They have most parts that you'll need for a engine reco / rebuild, they use all top quality parts (most as per OEM) and they are extremely good value for money :wink:

New timing chain does mean new gears so keep that in mind too.....be sure to use a duplex set up.

I wouldn't recommend using Teflon buttons for the gudeon pins, they are OK, but can have poor life, especially in an 1100 since it has a long (very long) stroke. Circlips are only asking for trouble. Use Aluminium buttons :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:58 pm 
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1275cc
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I'm already using a duplex timing chain - see what condition it's in after about one and a half years of use, but while it's all apart I might just replace it with a new one. Anybody know the life cycle of a duplex chain under normal conditions???

Not so sure about a different cam......yep, it would be nice but I have no plans on upgrading the drum brakes or the 'cheese cutter' wheels/tyres. I'm not planning to go any faster so.........

Teflon buttons....aluminum buttons.....I've never used them before but I only know of the teflon ones that are in Rod's mini, so lets have some discussion on the pros and cons of both.

New crank and con-rod bearings - again, it depends on the condition of the existing ones seeing as this rebuild isn't too old. Again, see how the old ones are but I really do expect to do this as a matter of course.....They will be replaced if I get a crank re-grind.

As of right now, I have no idea of the state of the cam bearings in this other block......again, when I start, I'll have to have a look.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 5:33 pm 
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religious status
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I last built a 1220 Sprite motor with Imp pistons & teflon buttons on 13/9/2003.
It's still going fine and apparently so are the buttons (head was off recently for a look).

If using circlips, put em in the right way round... sharp edges OUTWARDS.
:wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 02, 2010 9:27 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Aug 13, 2004 3:45 am
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Location: SE QLD
300,000km on std pistons and circlips - cant be too much wrong with them.

That said I have done the teflon buttons in the rebuilt engine too.

Lots of gasket goo will stop theleaks too :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:00 am 
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998cc
998cc

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Location: brisvages
dont forget the acid bath first, it relaxes the mind body and soul
massage the bores and deck,
lubricate the bearings and cam
drink plenty of liquid gold
take a big breath and relese

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 4:55 pm 
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1275cc
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Ok, the engine is about to be lifted out - well, tomorrow or Wednesday. While I was preparing everything, moving stuff out of the way etc. I've lost one of the ball bearings out of one pot joint/drive shaft - buggered if I can find it.

Is there some kind soul with a spare that I could buy it from you???

Thanks :oops:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:55 am 
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1275cc
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Rodney wrote:
Ok, the engine is about to be lifted out - well, tomorrow or Wednesday. While I was preparing everything, moving stuff out of the way etc. I've lost one of the ball bearings out of one pot joint/drive shaft - buggered if I can find it.

Is there some kind soul with a spare that I could buy it from you???

Thanks :oops:


get a new one from a bearing shop. search for the size in other threads .....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 8:19 am 
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mickmini wrote:
Rodney wrote:
Ok, the engine is about to be lifted out - well, tomorrow or Wednesday. While I was preparing everything, moving stuff out of the way etc. I've lost one of the ball bearings out of one pot joint/drive shaft - buggered if I can find it.

Is there some kind soul with a spare that I could buy it from you???

Thanks :oops:


get a new one from a bearing shop. search for the size in other threads .....


A good place to get them but take a 'sample' one from the same joint. If it is not original or been recoed, then it may not have an original sized bearing in it :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:27 am 
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1275cc
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 9:52 am
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Location: Clifton Springs, Victoria
Just checking out the engine numbers on the two blocks I have - one will be the lucky one !!!

10YF/U/H9024 looks in much better condition than.........

1015/8111 followed by a stamp of a map of Australia

This second one is odd - can any-one throw any light on it please.

Cheers

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