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 Post subject: steering rack question
PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:38 pm 
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998cc
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Location: On the edge of "The Shire" NSW
The steering rack in my mini just purchased is off centre. I understand that it has not been centred in the rack properly as I have a different amount of turn from left (3/4 of a turn) to right (1 &1/4turn).
My question is regarding the amount of turn I should have? When this rack is centred and i get my 1 full turn in each direction is that the correct amount or is this rack from an early 850 or something?

Thanks Brian

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:47 pm 
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Hi Brian,

It sounds like it hasnt been centred correctly when the steering column was fitted onto the rack shaft.
Probably easy to fix, but sometimes is difficult due to the cut out in the steering column for the bolt which locks the column to the rack. THis some times doesnt line up correctly.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:52 pm 
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If the pinion has a slot for the bolt (not a groove), this should be at the bottom when rack is in mid position.
Later Oz racks have a groove right around for the bolt, so are not fussy to assemble.
Oz racks all have 2.3 turns lock to lock. UK Mk2 onwards racks have 2.7.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:56 pm 
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998cc
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I figure that the centering wont be a major issue it is the amount of turn I should have? Should 1 full turn in each direction be what i should expect?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 10:04 pm 
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Yes it's actually 1.15 turns each way. Pretty direct...
The later racks do give you more lock, but the ones they sell now from UK are rubbish. If the rack you have is loose see Mini King (or me) for an exchange one. Or I can do yours up in a week turnaround.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 10:12 pm 
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998cc
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Thanks Doc,
I was just a bit unsure about this rack, as this car has been a disaster from the word go. Is there a number on the rack or something that Identifies it?
Regards Brian

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 10:20 pm 
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If it's an Oz design rack it should have Cam Gears Australia and a patent number, on the LH end casting.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:20 am 
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Aussie Brian wrote:

..... from left (3/4 of a turn) to right (1 &1/4turn).

Thanks Brian


It sounds like a quick rubbish.....eerrrrr.....ratio UK rack. If it is, get rid of it.

Or you may have more turns in there it's just that the wheel is touching the inner guard.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 6:15 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Melbourne
Some other things to consider.
If the rack is not centred you will also have some strange things happening with the tie rod end adjustments. The length of these on each side should have a difference of no more than 1/8". (Measured from the inner hemispherical joint on the end of the rack to the pin on the tie rod end). Even better if you can get them exactly the same length with the correct toe out. If the rack is off centre one side will be a lot longer than the other with the correct toe out.

Several things can happen if that is a long way out.

The toe out change on turns will be wrong and the front tyres can wear fast.
(The inside wheel when turning has to turn through a larger angle than the outside wheel as the inner and outer wheels travel slightly different distances during a turn.)
Most steering assemblies have a tight spot in the centred position to stop small variations in the road surface moving the steering. If the rack is off centre the car will wander all over the place and the constant steering correction required can make for a very tiring drive and is a real PIA.
The bump steer effect will be different on each side.

If its the early type of pinion and the rack has been apart the rack may not have been centred properly when the pinion was reassembled and it could be one or more teeth out. When you refit the column the steering wheel will be off centre unless you reposition it on the shaft.
(This is one of my pet hates done by so called wheel aligners who don't understand what they are doing. They can't be bothered adjusting both sides and reposition the steering wheel to centre it. Fortunately the advent of air bags has largely prevented this happening now. The cost of a new air bag far exceeds the cost of doing the job properly.)

I'll get off my soap box now.

Hope this helps
RonR

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:27 pm 
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998cc
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Thank you to all who responded. I will be taking the rack out of the car to inspect and repair as I have just removed the engine. This car is turning into a nightmare :cry: but i wont let it get me down :) .

Regards
Brian

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:59 pm 
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J curve Brian J curve ,1st it goes down then it comes back up ,As I said before it is just a early prototype for the MK2

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 9:06 pm 
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AWOODY wrote:
J curve Brian J curve ,1st it goes down then it comes back up


And after J comes K for Kiss and cuddle it and it will love me back. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:18 pm 
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Don't understand the problem. The rack is a fixed length from the end of one tie rod to the end of the other. The pinion goes round an round and has no particular alignment. Maybe originally they had the column lock bolt at the bottom but it doesn't really matter.

Turn the wheel until its on one lock, turn it to the lock now you know how many turns from one end to the other. Turn the wheel back half as many turns. Take the wheel off and refit it straight ahead. Now you have the rack centralised.

When you have the wheel alignment done any good shop they will have an adjustable rod that locks the wheel straight ahead. The wheels are then set so that they point straight ahead (with the proper toe out) with the steering centralised.

Mk II racks have a hole on the left hand side that allow a pin (small screwdriver) to be inserted to lock the rack in the centre.

"...(The inside wheel when turning has to turn through a larger angle...." called the Ackermann angle and is not dependant on the rack being centralised.

Cheers, Ian


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