could be your starter motor mine was.

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

Maybe instead of asking tony how much his alternators are you should get him to check it out for you and tell you whats wrong/what needs doing.

could be your timing, could be wiring, could be solenoid, could be many things
test each thing to make sure its functioning properly. if your getting 14V+ to the battery when the car is running then your alternator is doing its job. bridge the connection on the solenoid to see if its working properly. etc etc til you have eliminated stuff then come back

did the same thing with the other battery..

im sure it is a the alternator.

i will get tony to have a look when i check out his alternators hopefully tomorrow.

Actually i just thought... is this an electronic fuel injected Rover?

If it is, that could be the same issue as mine had. Ended up being a dodgy crank angle sensor....

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... 0&start=45

thats the thread and everything for mine. Similar issue. But different if you know what i mean.

Since replacement of the sensor, i have had no issues *knocks wood repeatedly*

buy a $10 multimeter from jaycar/dick smiths and put it on the battery when running - this will tell you whether its your alternator or not

im just looking for my multi metre some where in the house

but i had the battery tested today as suggested for free and there computer thing said it is 100% fine ++ on everything.

i still think it's alternator or starter.

it's a weak kick over.

If you're alternator was undercharging the battery, wouldn't this show up as an undercharged battery during the battery test?

But if your battery is fully charged and fine, as reported by the test, then the alternator must be charging it fine.. yes?

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

yes, but he said as it is a dry cell.

they charge very quick 15mins driving tops them up so it maybe draining when my stuff is all going or as suggested a small leak in power.

i will look more just been to busy, got to find that metre.

I ran a Pulsar dizzy on the 1360, no cold start problems.
But I've had a cold starting problem since I dropped the 1412 stroker in last week. Coil is still the same GT40R, but now running a ballast resistor and a 45D dizzy (with Britparts module inside).

So today I put a jumper wire from the white/red wire on the solenoid, to the coil side of the ballast resistor. The wire has 2x 1000V, 6A diodes spliced in so the ignition circuit can't crank the starter.
This mod bypasses the ballast resistor during cranking. Starting problem now gone.

Maybe, if you do the same, could be it'll fix yours too.....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Nick just give me a ring and bring it down to my workshop and we will fit one of my Bosch 85 Amp Units and boost up the charge lead. Like we discussed on the phone. That will pump some charge back into the battery.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

If you think it's getting drained overnight take the battery lead off when you park it and put it back on last thing in the morning. I would have thought if it had fuel injection it would have run a ballast resistor as standard which would have been bypassed while cranking as standard? Still sounds like weak spark under cranking to me.

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Cheers
PeterN
3x Leylands
1x 850
Mildura,
Victoria.

it is not EFI CARBY

i need to get it checked out properly yes tony ill zip down next week.

i think i need one but it may be another problem.

it just does not kick over hard really soft start.

wont know more till i look into it more but the alternator is charging im told.