i want to flush my oil cooler out as i am rebuilding the engine and dont want any metal filings that were floating around, to get into the engine that may still be trapped inside the oil cooler.

any suggestions to clean it out? kero? degreaser?

thanks, jason

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

I used to flush mine out with with turps years ago until it ran clear. It worked OK for me, but if you've had a good engine blowup and you KNOW it's got shavings etc in, I would bin it and buy a new one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It is recommended to fit a new Cooler rather than try to clean out a used one, but it is plumbed to the inlet side of the filter, so clean as best you can, fit and run until the oil gets hot for about 5 minutes, Change Oil Filter and you should be right (no guarantees though).

If you do buy a new one - and they are fairly cheap (especially when reflected upon the cost of an engine re-build) - DO NOT ACCEPT if it is not fitted with plugs over the pipe fittings. Who knows what could have ended up going down there?

But, if it's a road car IMO I wouldn't bother to fit it. Not required and just another place to leak from.

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I cross sectioned an old one once. There is no way that you can clean these by flushing. The core galleries are so fine and the route so torturous that it will be impossible to clean.
Buy a new one.

agree with above, for the price replace it, much cheeper and easier than removing your engine and replaceing the bearings and oil pump again.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

ok thanks guys

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

I too say replace it. Just not worth the risk.

Al

ordered a new one this morning. old one is going in the bin!

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'66 BRG Morris Mini Deluxe 60HP ATW

Does anybody know why the factory Cooper S oil cooler had the ends removed from the top plate whilst the aftermarket versions (e.g. Serck) have a full width plate?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I can see there being a practical reason in that the factory coolers were mounted at the bottom only therefore not requiring the alternate mountings, thereby also increasing the access to the dizzy somewhat through the grill and also clearing the diagonal brace a little more.
Its remarkable how little they have changed and how ubiquitous the design is amongst the various cheap or expensive manufacturers really.

You could get the cooler desludged by an engine reconditioner. They have chemical hot tanks for alloy engine components which bring them up nice and new, but nothing would remove lodged swarf which would be a worry...
I've got a couple of originals here as well and thought long and hard about using one, but using old coolers is like using old oil filters imho...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

So were they supplied to BMC like that or did the factory cut the ends themselves? For a concours car the ends would need to be removed.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Given the formed shape of the ends, they certainly don't look either hacksawed off nor guillotined which would leave the ends less than neatly cut.
I would imagine if I were subcontracting for the supply of many thousands of these oil coolers I would make sure I didn't need any further work to be completed after their supply I suppose.

Note they also have holes pressed in the end plates which is not found on the modern coolers.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.