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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 12:51 pm 
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Rodney wrote:

1015/8111 followed by a stamp of a map of Australia

This second one is odd - can any-one throw any light on it please.

Cheers


It's an Ozzy 1100

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:08 pm 
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998cc
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Rodney wrote:
Ok, the engine is about to be lifted out - well, tomorrow or Wednesday. While I was preparing everything, moving stuff out of the way etc. I've lost one of the ball bearings out of one pot joint/drive shaft - buggered if I can find it.

Is there some kind soul with a spare that I could buy it from you???

Thanks :oops:


Hey mate, Don might have a spare ball bearing or know someone who might.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:33 pm 
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Location: Camden, Syd, Aus
Hi Guys,
Apologies as im sure this kind of stuff has been covered many times, but while on the subject i was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of information involving an engine rebuild. I dont have the time or the knowhow to do it myself, but live near a mini shop who can do it. I'm really just after what actually gets done and a rough shot at a price. I drive a '69 morris 1100 k if thats any help.
Any help is much appreciated!

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:09 pm 
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998cc
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Location: wollongong
Gibbo your best bet is to go and talk to an engine reconditioner

i can vouch for Graham Russels work, he is in north rocks give him a buzz.

Russell Engineering
113 North Rocks Rd
North Rocks 2151
(02) 9630 2195

talk to Graham about your driving style and he will give you what you need..

it depends on what you get done as to the price..

best of luck

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 6:27 pm 
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1275cc
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Found the ball bearing :D

Engine out today (thanks Rod for the use of your crane) and the gear-box is separated from the block. Had a quick look at the big end bearings and the mains - bit scratched up but not too bad. The drama is of course in #1 bore - I'll post a picture of the damage later but i reckon this block is now an anchor :cry:

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 7:14 pm 
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Measure the crank too, any more than .001" (absolute max) ovality on any journal, it's time for a regrind...

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:06 pm 
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Here's the pictures of my 'anchor' and I've also got a good one of the piston. I'm surprised this engine ran at all. Not bad eh!!!
Image

Image

And now for cam identification - is this special with the two rings on it?
Image

Cheers

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:11 pm 
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From Vizard's chart p284
smallbore (3/8 lobe width) pin drive cam, 2 rings, is a 12G165 or AEA630
used on 1100 Sprite Mk2, or Midget Mk1
Same timing numbers & lift as a Morris 1100 or early Cooper S cam.

230/252° duration, .250" lift at lobe.

[edit] but it's maybe been reground to something else since. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Fri Jul 09, 2010 7:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:13 pm 
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Yeh that doesnt look to healthy. looks like the gudgeon pin circlip has failed or something.

amazing how engines still run when something like this happens. :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:08 pm 
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Good 'photo's Rod, blimey that really is scored eh :shock:
Piston looks like it partially melted ?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:40 am 
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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... sc&start=0

is when we did the previous re-build - I thought it was only some 4 years ago but it was 5 years - done some miles since then so I guess it's to be expected - another rebuild that is.

I think the old engine was 180 degrees out - before stripping everything down, with the flywheel on the 1/4 mark and the rotor button pointing to the two o'clock position (approx) the dot to dot on the two sprockets carrying the timing chain don't match up. But if I bring them into line ,again with the flywheel on the TDC mark (1/4), the rotor button points to approx eight o'clock.

Think I've asked this question before - when the engine's at TDC, should the valves be shut on #1 and rocking on #4, or is it the other way around?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:45 am 
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I think #1 should be on the firing stroke in that situation - so #4 should be rocking.

<edit> the more I read your post the more I think I'm wrong :?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 11:39 am 
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When the dots on the sprockets are lined up, it's firing on #4, not #1. Why?
One of the A series little intricacies... :lol:
You have to then turn the motor 1 full turn first, and then fit the dizzy driveshaft so it looks right in the pic.

Jeez this catches a lot of 1st time players... :P

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 12:35 pm 
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Yer........how often does this come up........engines being 180 degrees out :D

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:16 pm 
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Wow........doesn't time fly when you're having fun :lol:

Well, after weighing up the options etc, I decided to just scrap my block and get a reconditioned engine from a reputable supplier, bolt it to my gear box, add on the bits and bobs and put that in my car - job done. Not so......bad decision......however, that's another story that I might go in to later.

I have now got another engine that I've stripped down and I'm doing what I should have done in the first place........the block is at the engineers at the moment having all the 'normal' re-build stuff done like oil gallery plugs pulled out, dipped, re-bored for brand new pistons etc. etc.

So, photos to follow and so on - stay tuned :D

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