I am looking at replacing my bumpers and I am not sure what to go for. Is the chrome brighter than the stainless? The stainless seems to be more expensive, is it worth the extra money?

They are also available as genuine and reproduction, once they are on the car, can you tell the difference?

Chrome does appear brighter, but the finished bumpers are heavier and eventually get some rust on the appearing on the back as well as being more susceptible to the chrome lifting and pealing. The brighter finish however is really appealing.

If you are after originality, the non-genuine bumpers do not follow the exact same curve at the very ends, but this difference is really minimal and can only be seen when compared with the original.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The aftermarket chrome bumpers available now are not the same quality as the old ones were. They don't last.
SS ones are dearer but they are worth it, they last. However they do dent easy, as they are softer and thinner.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'd have to agree with both Mike & Dr on this one. Chrome bumpers is better & stronger but the newer Technic in Chroming is not what it use to be. If you could find a good Chromed bumper I'd Buy it / Stick with it.
S/S can buff up really good but does take a lot of effort and doesn't take much to make a mark on it. Even if you drop the battery + on it...you want get it out
My Choice Chrome even with the negatives

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

+1

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Chrome looks great, but as doc said, they rust and the reproductions are a poor fit.

I went stainless. Not as bright, but look the part.

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

Has anyone successfully had a dented original chrome bumper repaired and replated?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Yeap.

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How did it come out? Would you do it again? Who did the work? How much did it cost?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Agree'd the cheep Chrome ones are crap, and the fit can be a little "tight", personally I quite like the tight fit. as long as it dosen't cut the paint at the rear.

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

Yep but not lately. Chrome shops that specialized in bumper repair & replating seem to have gone with the coming of the $1000 POS plastic `bumpers'.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There's still chrome platers around who are able to plate a bumper. I wonder if it would be a better option to find a stainless bumper and have it chromed instead of trying to repair a rusted and dented chrome on steel bumper? The back of the 40+ yr old chromed bumpers are pretty rusty usually..

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

I've been told there are problems with chrome plating SS.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Can be done but quite a few different dips it has to go throo first to get the chrome to adhere properly and usually doesnt come up as shiney or last as long and can stain quite easily, not many shops will bother now

Thanks Mick. The logic I use in restoring my two MK II S's is to use authentic original parts wherever possible (i.e. aim for concours, if you like). If I scrap the chrome steel bumpers with dents that I have now then I'm helping to reduce the overall supply of genuine parts for future enthusiasts. Naturally cost comes into it so I can't always achieve this aim. The original S extractors are another example. We all know they were made of thin metal and not very robust but if I'm going to return my cars to the state they were in when they left Zetland then that's what I should try to fit.
The list also includes the 14AC alternator and 8TR regulator (even though better, more reliable options are available), the Lukey muffler and exhaust system, Wingard interior light (if it hasn't turned to powder), plug leads, etc.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43