Hi , i can not get a spark on my 998. I have 12V going to the + on the coil. The - on the coil also reads 12V. It's a pulsar dizzy.

There is 12V getting through the primary coil lead to the distributor.

The rotor turns (i checked it with the cap off).

I even tried it without the leads on in case they were the problem (just put the multimeter inside where the lead goes to see if that gave a reading) but nothing.

Could i have put the dizzy cap on the wrong way? Would it matter if the timing isnt set or is out?

Are there another wires or is there anything ive missed? Every wire was disconnected in the engine bay when i bought this car but i have power to ignition, it's cranking, the coil and alt have power. So as far as i know i should be able to start it...

here's a pic!
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg10 ... GP0615.jpg


If theres any guru's in perth who would like to have a look that'd be much appreciated!

Did you check the cap and make sure the sprung electode that sits on the rotor top hasn't fallen out

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Mini, its in my blood........

sprug electrode, wtf is that.

any place i can see a pic? lol

Is the Pusar dissy Electronic?

Test the coil. You can do this by connecting the -ve of the coil straight to the -ve of the battery, and then flick the +ve across the battery +ve. Attach a spark plug lead to the coil, with a plug and earth the plug back to the battery. This should produce a spark. If not, try a different lead and plug. If still no spark, there is a good chance the coil is cactus.

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Mini, its in my blood........

will do that now. here's the rotor button...

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg10 ... GP0616.jpg

ok yeah ive got that thing, thanks mate

not sure what you mean gt, i have 12V at the - side of the coil. So if i connect this to the - on the battery it shorts out.
If i connect a spark plug to a lead and connect it straight to the coil, it reads 12V.

ah yes i believe it is electronic. There is a lug for an electronic connector near where the vaccum hose goes, not sure if i need to connect something to this either.

That is/was a radio suppressor when in a Pulsar, I binned mine and the Pioneer radio is still fine.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Have you connected the two wires that go to the coil CORRECTLY ? In the case of HITACHI Distributors Black is Positive and Blue is negative !!!!!! Surprised ?

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

yeah. - is blue , positive is black and white

gt i finally figured out what you mean (took a while i know) and yes i do get a spark. So it would appear the coil is ok.

what can go wrong with the distributor? The cap is new. When i bought the car it had no cap. Is it possible something else is missing?

Heres my tip,
Put a test light probe on the -ve side of the coil when the engine is being cranked, it should pulse on and off. If not there is a problem to do with the distributor side of the coil.

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Dean Hutton's first car was a Mini.

OK, since you've played with both Carb and dissy, put your old dissy back in (if you have it) and get the car running again, which may need some tinkering with the carb. Once you have it going, swop back to the Pusar Dissy.

You should be able to test it before putting it back in by connecting it up to power and the coil (Just put a spark lead on the coil with a plug on as as per above), make sure you have a earth on the body of it, and spin the shaft with you fingers.

If you have spark, the module is OK, if not, good chance the module is cactus.

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ok i got spark with the old distributor and coil.

I did that test and no spark. What is this module you speak of, where do i get one and how do i change it?