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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 4:49 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
knuts2au wrote:
If i take the tyres off to work on it i always throw them underneath, out of the way and something else to get squished before me.


Good idea, I leep the wheel nuts on the wheels under the car so I don't accidentally kick the wheelnuts all over the garage as you walk past either.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 5:59 pm 
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=64580


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 6:07 pm 
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the King of Bling
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This time I will not make any comments :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 6:33 pm 
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Lockie91 wrote:
2 six packs of coopers empty. Put it all on the car, bled the brakes, wheels on, and took it for a spin round the block


:shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 6:42 pm 
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Location: Brisvages and the Goldie, the place to be..
ryan wrote:
please don't use bricks....full stop. No excuses. Do it right or not at all.

Personally I would never put a car up on stands on grass.


all very well and good if you have a shed with a concrete slab, or a garage mate. I'm a uni student, and rent, and as it is they hate me doing car work at my address.

I can garantee if I used my car stands that IT WOULD definitely have been unstable and wobbly. Due to the fact that the subframe has been cut to fit the conversion in, I can only jack the car up on the tie rod point. I had to get right under the car to the gearbox on the other side to take the cir clip outta the pot joints, and I would have been very worried if the car was on the car stands. (Infact I tried the car stands at first, and wasn't happy with it one bit)

I agree with MG Rocket..

my 2 bob, end of story..

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 6:57 pm 
grey 64 wrote:
Lockie91 wrote:
2 six packs of coopers empty. Put it all on the car, bled the brakes, wheels on, and took it for a spin round the block


:shock:


Double :shock: :shock: and one of these :evil:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 7:01 pm 
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grey 64 wrote:
2 six packs of coopers empty. Put it all on the car, bled the brakes, wheels on, and took it for a spin round the block

Beer and brakes do not mix. Put yer car up on blocks but DO NOT DRINK
WHILE YOU ARE WORKING ON YOUR BRAKES :!:


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 7:06 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Whatever. It will all make for a stirling eulogy at a bogan funeral..


On ausmini, you can view your funeral flowers before you die :)

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 7:33 pm 
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Location: Brisvages and the Goldie, the place to be..
Mick wrote:
Whatever. It will all make for a stirling eulogy at a bogan funeral..


On ausmini, you can view your funeral flowers before you die :)

Image


i don't go for pink, im not a GIRL couldn't you pick something else? :lol:

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 7:58 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Ha ha :)

So was the brake setup all new or rebuilt?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 9:20 pm 
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Location: Wollongong
Lockie91 wrote:
ryan wrote:
please don't use bricks....full stop. No excuses. Do it right or not at all.

Personally I would never put a car up on stands on grass.


all very well and good if you have a shed with a concrete slab, or a garage mate. I'm a uni student, and rent, and as it is they hate me doing car work at my address.

I can garantee if I used my car stands that IT WOULD definitely have been unstable and wobbly. Due to the fact that the subframe has been cut to fit the conversion in, I can only jack the car up on the tie rod point. I had to get right under the car to the gearbox on the other side to take the cir clip outta the pot joints, and I would have been very worried if the car was on the car stands. (Infact I tried the car stands at first, and wasn't happy with it one bit)

I agree with MG Rocket..

my 2 bob, end of story..


I had my mini all through uni, with no real spare cash. Not once did that make me think that my safety was worth risking. Find somewhere suitable. There are people out there who care about you and i'm sure you wouldn't want to put them through anything like loosing someone. I understand that you are renting. I am too, one of the considerations I had when finding somewhere was space to work on the mini.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 10:39 pm 
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knuts2au wrote:
If i take the tyres off to work on it i always throw them underneath, out of the way and something else to get squished before me.


Yes, thats a good habit my dad taught me, you have to put the wheels somewhere, may as well push them under the car.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 7:21 am 
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A good trick to get the CV joint off is to find a pipe that will slip over the drive shaft it needs to be 150mm or so shorter than the drive shaft.

You also need to ensure the pipe wall sits nicely and squarley on the inside of the CV.

Place a piece of wood on the ground so you do not damage the end of the drive shaft all you do is drop / propell the end of the CV on to the wood from say waste high and the CV should pop off,

What is happening is you are hitting the cv square and this releases the CV clip with out binding it. If you hit it and it binds you are in for a battle.

Kiwiinwgtn


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 10:47 am 
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Location: Brisvages and the Goldie, the place to be..
kiwiinwgtn wrote:
A good trick to get the CV joint off is to find a pipe that will slip over the drive shaft it needs to be 150mm or so shorter than the drive shaft.

You also need to ensure the pipe wall sits nicely and squarley on the inside of the CV.

Place a piece of wood on the ground so you do not damage the end of the drive shaft all you do is drop / propell the end of the CV on to the wood from say waste high and the CV should pop off,

What is happening is you are hitting the cv square and this releases the CV clip with out binding it. If you hit it and it binds you are in for a battle.

Kiwiinwgtn


funny you should meantion that technique, as it was thought of at the time, mainly because we could see that hitting on one side wasant hitting the cv sqaure on the clip.

HOWEVER...... because my engine isan't mini, its the Diahatsu conversion,, the drive shafts are diahatsu, and they have a big rubber like shock load thing attached half way down the shaft that is not removable that blocks a pipe going down over the top of the drive shaft.. :( so unforunetly this method wasan't going to work for me :( It was a great idea tho we thought.

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 12:33 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Wellington,
A BFH is the only thing for cross breeds LOL

but another way is to get a piece of flat metal and cut a slot in it so it sits over the CV then use two big heavy hammers one in each hand and strike each side at the same time, you may will need an assistant

what you are trying to do is keep the Cv square at impact

I had the same problem on my wifes Nissan's CV boot change last week

Kiwiinwgtn


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