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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 7:43 am 
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Ive bitten the bullet and decided to replace the hinge to body gaskets also as Ill regret not doing it down the track.... Its been many moons since I put these on... I should of done this during the past 5 weeks that the door has been off...

What spanner size do I use and is there a trick to getting into such a tight spot?

Also is it one stud and one bolt per hinge, as it is for the hinge to door?

I used a $hit load of septone underbody sound deadner back in the day... Ive gotta get that off the threads somehow also.... hmmm....

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 7:54 am 
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I think it is either a 7/16 or 1/2 - hopefully someone can confirm.

I have found a socket on an extension for the bottom one inside the door and one of my stubby ratcheting spanners for the others. You will also need a large phillips head screwdriver for the upper and lower ones that actually sit near the edge of the door.

Before you do anything though I would recommend buying a magnet on a stick incase you drop something into the door!

<edit> the more I think about it, the more I think they are 1/2" nuts :?

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Last edited by 1018cc on Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:02 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:02 am 
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Ive already got the door off, I need to get the hinges off the body however.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:15 am 
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Give Ash some flowers Nick .
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Ah I see.

I think there is only 1 on each hinge that attach it to the body. (Last time they were off was 6 or 7 years ago so I could be wrong).

I'd use a socket on a ratchet handle to get to it :wink: I'd see if some thinners or something can soften the sound deadener before you round the nut off with brute force.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:29 am 
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1/4" bolts/screws 7/16" nuts

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:33 am 
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Yeah it was 9 years ago for me... I think I read on here somewhere that its best to use a spanner with its edges ground down for more clearance or something??? I wonder if I can get my ratchet spanners in there? Not exactly looking forward to it...

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:43 am 
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Hanra wrote:
Yeah it was 9 years ago for me... I think I read on here somewhere that its best to use a spanner with its edges ground down for more clearance or something??? I wonder if I can get my ratchet spanners in there? Not exactly looking forward to it...


That is for the one up under the mudguard - the ones in the door itself are no drama except if the Phillips head screw slots are knacked

Duh! reread your post - 11mm or 7/16" ring spanner - the Z shaped ones if you have them and grind the rim thin a bit to fit between the nut and the firewall up in the top cornet under the guard - lots of swear words and bandaids on hand - WD40 helps the night before as well

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Last edited by Wombat on Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:45 am 
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Reading this with interest as I will need to do it as well. I read somewhere about replacing the hinge studs with stainless studs to make it easier for the future?

Ah, yes, here they are!

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... 539&title=

Would it be worth using these?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:49 am 
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Flute wrote:
Reading this with interest as I will need to do it as well. I read somewhere about replacing the hinge studs with stainless studs to make it easier for the future?

Ah, yes, here they are!

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... 539&title=

Would it be worth using these?


I'd say yes - but I had replaced mine before I saw those - I used antisieze on them though

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:54 am 
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Wombat wrote:
Hanra wrote:
Yeah it was 9 years ago for me... I think I read on here somewhere that its best to use a spanner with its edges ground down for more clearance or something??? I wonder if I can get my ratchet spanners in there? Not exactly looking forward to it...


That is for the one up under the mudguard - the ones in the door itself are no drama except if the Phillips head screw slots are knacked

the Z shaped ones if you have them and grind the rim thin a bit to fit between the nut and the firewall up in the top cornet under the guard


Z shaped you say????? Wonder if Supercrap can come to the rescue again??

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:24 am 
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Hanra wrote:
Z shaped you say????? Wonder if Supercrap can come to the rescue again??


That's where I got mine :roll:

By Z I mean the cheapy ones that have about a 1" almost vertical bit between the handle part and the ring

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:36 am 
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Sweet Ill pay them a visit again this arvy. I was glad I went there yesterday, they have some good stuff for my tool board!!!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:53 am 
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Not a good picture but like this Image

Last set I got was actually from my local Mitre10 - 1st set was Supercrap years ago - can't see them online

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 5:45 pm 
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Nothing cheap at supercrap, actually they didnt have any individual spanners in 7/16 or 11mm....so had no choice but to go $20 Kinchrome one from Ricebarn....

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:08 pm 
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Okay I did mine with a 1/4" Drive socket ( can't remember the size but i am sure you will work that out easy enough ).
On the socket place a 1/4 drive universal. This gives you the angle to get away from the fire wall. Then a 6 inch extension and rachet into the universal.
Then it's happy days.

A good light to see what you are doing is also a real bonus :wink:

Brian

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