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 Post subject: Wierd Electrical Problem
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 6:44 pm 
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I drove out the driveway yesterday and the car just died, i assumed it was the coil. I went and bought a replacement coil today at lunch and have just come home and put it in the car.

Car still will not start. Behaves like it wants to, starter motor kicks over.

I noticed if i turn the key to acc everything works normally. Indicators work, lights work and so on. If i turn it to ign it doesnt act the same.

The right indicator light on the dash stays on solid. The indicators do not work at all. II am not getting a spark at all from the new coil.


Any ideas on whats dead before the coil, and why only on the ign line not the acc line.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:04 pm 
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have you checked all the earth straps?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:27 pm 
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yes, i drove about 50kms on sunday, thats what made me think it was the coil, when it just died and rolled to the side of the road.

But the solid right indicator lamp is not right, something is fried somewhere.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:40 pm 
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What made you think it was the coil?


I'd be tracing the loom and trying to find a short. Do you own a multimeter?

Ryan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:45 pm 
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coil has died before, and when i was on the road the car just died. I wasnt getting a spark at the plugs, tested it by holding the lead up to the plug.

So initial though was the coil. Put the coil in this afternoon. The nonticed that in acc its all good, but in ign the indicator is solid, and it still wont produce a spark at the plug.

I dont have a multimeter handy, ill see if i can borrow one from work, not sure if we have one. Otherwise i might be stuck buying one from Jaycar.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:54 pm 
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i just went out in the cold. And ran some tests.

acc everything works.

ign. heaps doesnt.

no indicators, right indicator lamp on dash on solid.
i have brake lights.
no park lights
no headlights
very slow wiper speed
no stereo centre

turn key to start and starter motor turns over but no spark at dizzy.

something is a miss, dont see any melted wires, no smells of plastic anywhere. everything "looks" normal.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 7:57 pm 
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so which wire has fallen off the back of the ignition switch or the connector?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:02 pm 
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i did check that, because after it got stolen i had a thought they may have tried to hotwire it. Everything looks normal. I even had the dash out and checked that, the only thing i can think of is the green PCB backing card on the dials.

It showed signs of wear, but didnt look fried.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:05 pm 
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Check the fuses, my look ok but the contacts my be dirty.
Cheers Pete

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:07 pm 
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fuses arent that old, and one is live circuit and the other ignition circuit, the items that are on both circuits work in acc. when you turn the key further to ign thats when stuff stops working.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:11 pm 
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Drexxle wrote:
fuses arent that old, and one is live circuit and the other ignition circuit, the items that are on both circuits work in acc. when you turn the key further to ign thats when stuff stops working.


Sounds like yr ignition switch is worn out. Does happen more often than you'd realise.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:26 pm 
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ill get a multimeter and do some testing. if it is the barrel on the column, ive had a look around, ill need to get one second hand, anybody got one.

ill replace the PCB on the dials. Just to be sure.

i would like to rebuild the wiring loom, any ideas where i can get all the right colored wires from. I would like to add extra wiring for the stereo centre (ipod, navman, invertor etc)

So two questions, where can i get the right color wire
and
Is it the whole column, or just the barrel that i replace (the black outer shell) or do i get it rebuilt.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:33 pm 
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I've got a complete switch / lock, but the old one can be a PITA to get off, you may need to drill the old screw heads off. PM me if you'd like it.

As for making a new harness, yes of course it can be done, but will probably cost more than you think. Bambach Cables is one supplier of the wire (with traces etc), but if you've not made one before, I'd suggest buying one from the likes of Vintage Harness. They can modify it with additional wires etc for spot lamps, stereo and stuff.

<EDIT> Scott's can also do the wiring harness

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/V ... 20List.htm

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:45 pm 
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Yeah Id be inclined to go with the IGN switch also. I think you should buy yourself a multimeter anyways, saves you replacing items that dont need replacing. Check to see if you have approx 12v at the + of the IGN coil when the key is set to on (make sure the points are OPEN). Do you have a Ballast resistor fitted? Confirm that you have approx 12v at the + side of the coil when cranking the starter over. But yeah, buy yourself a meter, even if its just a cheapy, at least you can check for continuity and voltages.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:50 pm 
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No ballast resistor, was using a standard GT40 coil when it died.

I have ordered a PCB for behind the dials, the current one had copper lifting off the plastic. Although not burnt out, it didnt look healthy.

I also have an electronic ignition module in the dizzy which is a 45d.

I could swap the dizzy out for a 29 with points if i need to.

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