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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 4:58 pm 
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NG wrote:
...that was my lucky thread lol.
In view of what Dave said it might be time to revive that thread :lol: ...Do you know where it is NG?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:03 pm 
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Do as the guy that built it says.

You obviously trust him enough to build it, so you can trust his advice on running in.

Run in the cam
Load it up, but don't rev it too hard.
Don't baby it.
Keep the revs varied.

Ryan

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:14 pm 
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Dylan's Clubby wrote:
..................... but i can tell you how to NOT run in a motor if you want. don't deliver piizzas with a fresh motor. not good


No Canola Oil in the Pizza's?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 6:26 pm 
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i agree with the varied revs theory and not too many too soon ie 1000km...

but i've only got rotary running in experience, but that motor i ran in is still going strong in two other owner's hands... high hp much thrashed 13BT with over 200 rear wheel killer wasps.....

lots of varied revs and a big sign in back window telling people why you're driving like a d#$%head accelerating and braking...


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:16 pm 
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As freind of mine always says about race engines, once you start them up, they are not running in, they are running out. :twisted:


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:37 pm 
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I've seen the range of running in methods in my time as a mechanic, and i have run my own engines in both hard and gently. They have all worked and lasted well.

My latest engine was doing 5000 rpm within 50ks (only under load for short periods) and is my reliable no smoke daily drive. I changed the oil at 100 then 1000 ks.

One tip i have heard is to run it in like it will be used unless it's going to be an open road car, apparently constant rpm can be bad for a fresh engine.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:44 pm 
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Years ago I ran in my hot rebuilt 1100 delivering pizzas, and a little track time as well.

It was fine...




Once I replaced a piston, and sleeved a bore.

Madmorrie


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 9:42 pm 
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Years ago, i watched my brother rebuild his engine out of his speedway mini ,
( 1408 fuel injected stroker ) on the Friday night, put it back in ,fire it up, run it for about an hour, double check everything, load it onto the trailer and take it back to the speedway on the Saturday and totally ring it's neck for the night and not break it.
His theory was that if you put them together right ,they shouldn't break.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:02 pm 
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Ok so it seems it's more important to follow the "what not to do's", than the "what to do's", as there are several choices with the "what to do's" - ie run it hard, or take it reasonably easy but load up the engine and vary the revs. Neither of these options seem to end in failure

The things not to do I imagine would be:

don't let it idle too long when starting for first time
don't sit at the same engine speed for long periods of time
don't do a lot of stop/start driving

?

disclaimer - this is not advice, but more a question!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:13 am 
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superSeven wrote:
The things not to do I imagine would be:

don't let it idle too long when starting for first time
don't sit at the same engine speed for long periods of time
don't do a lot of stop/start driving


thats what I do.... (I mean yeah, don't do those things and it'll be fine)

GR told me NOT to "run in the cam" with a completely fresh engine, it's more important to bed in the rings and bores by loading it up from the start. If you've only replaced the cam and followers, then sure, run in the cam, otherwise don't do it

I drive mine out to Beechworth where there are some really long slugging hills. I do things like accelerate with my foot on the brakes to get it to work hard.

Get your tune as correct as possible before you start the motor, time it properly, get the carbs set up right so you can jump straight in and drive without dicking around


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:51 am 
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some good suggestions guys, thankyou.

Keep them coming :)

I was told to prime the oil pump before starting as its a fresh motor, so pull the engine over by hand backwards to prime it. Yes no?

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Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 8:57 am 
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Lockie91 wrote:
some good suggestions guys, thankyou.

Keep them coming :)

I was told to prime the oil pump before starting as its a fresh motor, so pull the engine over by hand backwards to prime it. Yes no?

Yes I always do this- pour oil into the banjo connection hole on the block, turn backwards a turn or so until level drops, refill, repeat. Then hook the pipe up but leave fitting 1/2 a turn loose. Crank motor until OIL (not air) comes out, then tighten it up.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 9:17 am 
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Location: Brisvages and the Goldie, the place to be..
drmini in aust wrote:
Lockie91 wrote:
some good suggestions guys, thankyou.

Keep them coming :)

I was told to prime the oil pump before starting as its a fresh motor, so pull the engine over by hand backwards to prime it. Yes no?

Yes I always do this- pour oil into the banjo connection hole on the block, turn backwards a turn or so until level drops, refill, repeat. Then hook the pipe up but leave fitting 1/2 a turn loose. Crank motor until OIL (not air) comes out, then tighten it up.


arh so that's how its done. Beautiful thankyou for that. Will do it. :)

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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