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 Post subject: Best Performance Engine
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 6:59 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Perth
With the Clubman project back on track - I've turned my mind once again to engines.

Looking in 1001 cattledogs, engines seem to range from 998 to 1430 with HP up to 140 odd!

For a fast road (em fast within speed limits officer) and occasional track car, does anybody have a recommendation?

I'm not after some undrivable lumpy thing that needs to be revved to hell to keep it going. Basically I want easy driving, good torque and reasonable power.

Look forward to opinions...

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"He who dies with the most toys wins."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:13 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 4:50 pm
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Location: Wollongong
That is like asking how long is a piece of string. There are so many options. Best bet is to speak to your engine builder.

My dream engine would be:

1330cc
RE13 cam
inch and a half twin SU carbs
12G940 head with a bit of work done to it.
Maybe a set of 1.3:1 or 1.5:1 roller tip rockers
extractors
4 syncro box remote change box
3.44 diff

Ryan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:20 pm 
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1360cc
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I'd go a single HS6 or HIF44 on a RE7 intake over twin 1 3/4 SU's. But other than that this is the exact engine I have ^^

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 8:49 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
I'd be tempted to go to a 1360 or 1380, more cc's = more power. A well gas flowed head will help any mini and think about a crank angle sensor set up for electronic ignition :wink: .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 9:29 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Rockingham - Collie WA
Having had a variety over the years, I'd have to say a bored and stroked engine gives the best performance for road & track.

While the 1430 in MRBN isn't a firebreathing track motor, it can hold it's own against most while still being great to drive around town due to plenty of torque low down in the rev range. All parts of the engine need to be developed to make a good package i.e. ported head, cam, induction and ignition.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 9:31 pm 
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1360cc
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Just a suggestion Mike, but I should have the car ready & refreshed in about two months. You can take it for a spin then if you like to see what I mean.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:24 pm 
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998cc
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ryan wrote:
That is like asking how long is a piece of string. There are so many options. Best bet is to speak to your engine builder.



Ryan


quite simple really, double the length from one side to the middle.

Bill

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:04 pm 
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1360cc
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Kennomini wrote:
I'd be tempted to go to a 1360 or 1380, more cc's = more power. A well gas flowed head will help any mini and think about a crank angle sensor set up for electronic ignition :wink: .


All well and good, but it depends what you have now. If it's a virgin 1275 block, it would be a waste to bore it out to 1380 straight up. Yes CC = HP but good 1275 blocks aren't exactly dime a dozen either. IMO it's not worth wasting a good block just for 2-3ft/lbs of extra torque from the 50ccs or whatever...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:05 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
and remember that anyone who tries to tell you a worked 1100 is a good option is kidding themselves


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:32 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
mtsmini wrote:

I'm not after some undrivable lumpy thing that needs to be revved to hell to keep it going. Basically I want easy driving, good torque and reasonable power.

Look forward to opinions...


Some people will "try" to tell you that "bigger isn`t always better"

well,,, in my opinion, who-ever made up that saying , obviously only has a little one

& where this particular topic is concerned "Bigger really is better"

Go big with the capacity but keep the cam & compression ratio mild,,, give it some good head,,, & you`ll have exactly what you`re after

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:59 pm 
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1098cc
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Quote:
and remember that anyone who tries to tell you a worked 1100 is a good option is kidding themselves


Thats not always true ou can get alot out of an 1100 dad was running around phillip island in the clubman ant some of the fully worked cooper s couldnt keep up


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:33 pm 
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1275cc
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CARTER_GT wrote:
Quote:
and remember that anyone who tries to tell you a worked 1100 is a good option is kidding themselves


Thats not always true ou can get alot out of an 1100 dad was running around phillip island in the clubman ant some of the fully worked cooper s couldnt keep up


In all honesty, they mustn't of been fully worked. Nothing compares to size.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:40 pm 
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1098cc
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They were historic sports sedans and my dads 1100 had a lightened fly wheel cooper head and 1/1.5 su.
Plus my dad knows how to drive really well. And they were fully worked


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:53 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Qld, Brisbane
Sure you can make a small bore go super quick, but if you did the same to a big bore it would go quicker. My boss used to race mini 7's in NZ in the 60's/70's and he has an old newspaper article mentioning how he was going faster then 1275 race engines. The only difference was the build of the motor, they were "normal race engines" were his and some other 850's were all experimenting, running super high compression on methanol fuels, machining weight off everything that moved, be it a piston, a diff or even driveshafts.

Kinda like when formula 1 got 1200hp or whatever out of 1.5 litres


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:30 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Riverland SA
I have a 998 that I have had

board 40thou
Head has bigger valves and ported
mild grind cam
balanced all moving parts
3 into 1 extractors
cooper twin HS2 SU carbs
electrionic ignition

you can't expect earth moving perforance but it will do 90mph and is alot of fun to drive do yu really need any more than that?

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