Hi all,

I got my clutch peddle working, and when you push down the clutch lever arm pushes out from the slave cylinder but the clutch still isnt engaging/disengaging the gears (i put into first gear then try to move car whilst clutch peddle is down yet its still in gear)

any ideas?? not enough movement on the clutch lever arm..if so how can i increase this?
Clutch needs adjusment...how can this be done??
Could there be remaining air in the systems...i was getting a good solid squirt of brake fluid coming out of it when i bled it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Cheers

Craig

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Hi-Ho Silver LS1275
Charlieeeeeeeee Come to Candy Mountain!

Worn ball on the arm.

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

The Arm should be moving about an inch and a half (~40 mm) if all the air is out.

Next thing to check is the adjustment of the arm. There is a little bolt (7/16" AF Spanner fits it) with a lock nut on the wok that the arm rests against. Take the spring off the top of the arm and with your hand pulling on the arm, see if there is any free play up to when you feel it go solid. There must be a little free play here (~0.5 mm between the arm and the adjustment bolt).

If after adjusting that it is still no workie, then it is likely the ball on the lower end of the arm is worn and you'll need a new arm (it never ends).....

Check all the Clevis pins for wear too (Master Cylinder to pedal, Top of Clutch Arm, and Clutch arm pivot).

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why would anyone ever rebuild a car.......................

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Hi-Ho Silver LS1275
Charlieeeeeeeee Come to Candy Mountain!

just annoying because everything was working when i took it out to replace the clutch...could that have something to do with it??

your help is greatly appreciated....just reach that dark area of a rebuild where everything seems to be going wrong

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Hi-Ho Silver LS1275
Charlieeeeeeeee Come to Candy Mountain!

Yes, that's not unusual.

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When you fit a new clutch plate etc the diaphragm assembly moves towards the engine. So the arm has to move in more to begin with.
1. Are the 2 big nuts on the touching the housing? If so undo them until they aren't, and try clutch again.
2. After adjustment, is the pedal hitting the floor? (it should) If not, the piston in the slave is hitting the circlip due to wear in the system.
Either-
a. fit a new clutch arm, or-
b. heat and bend the arm 6mm towards the motor (not recommended), or-
c. remove the circlip, it's not needed once assembled on the motor.

Another trap on Minis is the clutch master cylinder size. It should be 0.75" bore. However some cars were built with 0.70" (plastic tank) ones, these do not really move enough fluid to provide trouble free clutch performance.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If all was working before - could the new clutch plate be in backwards? Offset part of primary gear spline should face the block?

After hours of work on my clutch , found the ball on the clutch arm was stressed and bent. Hard to spot. Line it up with another good arm and see if the tip is in the same position.

Did the clutch pedal go completely hard at any point? - that would be the hydaulics bending the arm.

Just some ideas..........

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Now with 2 extra ports!

pain in the ass some of the clutch, little bits of play make for lots of pain.

from the pedal

the ring on the end of the plunger that goes into the master goes egg shaped with wear, 1 or 2 mm play.

slave cylinder bore slowly leaking may not extend all the way out and will slowly pull back in on itself

arm that goes into the plunger the correct length

clutch lever bent, or ball on the end bent, ball also goes egg shaped

plunger that the ball fits into wears alot few mm play in that

thrust bearing not far in enough (put sump washer on before the bearing to increase the throw)

disc on the diaphram worn and grooved, bearing has further to travel to meet it.

new diaphram, again more travel in the plunger to meet it

clutch plate in backwards would be very noticable when putting it back together

start from the pedal and work your way through the list till you spot whats giving you too much play.

and i dont know the exact names for things

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Aussie Leyland, Aussie Factory, Aussie Mini S.

And remember, A man made problem is always the hardest one to find.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I HAVE A WORKING CLUTCH!!!!!!

made some adjustments to the throw over stop and clutch adjuster and rebleed the clutch and it finally worked!!!

Thanks everyone for all the help!!!!

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Hi-Ho Silver LS1275
Charlieeeeeeeee Come to Candy Mountain!