After a few months off the road and messing around
with slave cylinder kits and then thinking it was a thrust
bearing, I read a recent thread and I decided to check
my clutch lever arm. Here it is.









I guess I am lucky the ball didn't drop inside although
maybe that wouldn't matter. I am learning as I go and
need to know if I get the replacement part:

http://www.minisport.com.au/prod783.htm

do I need to do any adjustments as it says re hydraulics
in which case can I stuff it up or do I just put the new
one in? I have replaced the three clevis pins already
and will do the thrust bearing later when the engine comes
out. Should I just get the above part, find a good original
(if that is possible) or spend more and replace it with one
of the race type lever arms and bearing pins like this?

http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1670.htm

Cheers.

_________________
Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

just go the standard one, and replace the thrust carrier as well, cos it'll be very worn too

the only adjustment of course is to adjust the clutch stop etc. as normal

I'd just put it in. The adjustment will almost certainly need to be done (the little 1/4" UNF Bolt and lock nut on the Wok) and you should be OK, however when you do the thrust bearing, check the plunger for wear too.

If after replacing the arm, you find that everything appears to move OK but the clutch still doesn't disengauge, then you will need to replace the plunger.

Those 'race' ones are very good however not really warrented unless you running and extra heavy diaphram (like an orange) and you want a long time between replacements.

_________________

Don't even think about TIG welding old ones when cracked there. It doesn't work...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the advice and no I wont go trying to weld it. Cheers.

_________________
Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Decided to do the plunger and thrust bearing after all. Plunger was very worn inside. bearing looks OK but will put a new one on anyway. I now see why people say how hard it is to get the clutch cover off and I found even harder to get it out. I had to move the brake booster and heater tap to get it out. That is after moving the starter, disconnecting engine steady, unbolting engine mount and jacking engine up a bit. I took a spanner to a workshop and got it heated up and bent but the angle wasn't exact so didn't work too well. I have since found a spanner with a hinged or flex head and ratchet which may work better next time. Like these. Anyone tried one?



Just have to try and get it back together now and see if it works. At least I can say I have done it I guess. Oh, and I have found a stop nut and lock nut to put on the end of the plunger.

_________________
Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

I've bought only 3 of them ^ 7/16", 1/2" and 9/16". I doubt that I would ever use any other sizes. The half inch one is handy for getting to theat one bolt at the back of the wok, but I have a special ring spanner for the 2 bolts underneith!

_________________

Thanks, yes, I only bought the 1/2 inch and will see how it goes.

_________________
Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

I brought a set of stubby ring / open-ender spanners for $30 at a swap meet and they're great for getting into tight spots, best thing i've brought for working on mini's along with a Blu-Point extendable pick up magnet .