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Which is the easiest way to remove the radiator?
Cut the shroud 22%  22%  [ 7 ]
Jack up the engine 78%  78%  [ 25 ]
Total votes : 32
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 Post subject: Radiator Removal
PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:27 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Canberra, ACT
I have read the How-to article but it lists two ways. I don't want to start a flame, but which is easier?

Also, neither article mentions the bonnet. Does it need removing or will I be able to tilt the radiator on an angle and get it in without removing the bonnet?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:34 pm 
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Jack up the engine. You shouldn't need to remove the bonnet.

Cutting the shroud reduces support.

Piece of piss, I get them out in about 10 minutes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:49 pm 
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1275cc
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No reason to cut the shroud. Just jack up the motor.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:27 pm 
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848cc
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i didnt jack anything up to do mine on the clubby. dont know about roundies though. all i did was removed bonnet and hoses. then used a short spanner to remove the small shroud screws. then the mount screws. then the radiator then easily came out :P bout half hour out and in

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 11:11 pm 
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Find the post by Matt Read (The Miniman) on how to do it..
(it apparently takes him 4/10ths of a second)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 7:14 am 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
I don't know about the rest, but I have never managed to get it out the same way twice :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 7:50 am 
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1098cc
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I'm with Mick.

I hate the stupid things, I don't like cutting the body but I'll do whatever else it takes. If its to do something fiddly, like alter the shroud or engine mounts, I'll just pull the whole lot out, its not worth the hassle trying to do it with the engine in the way.

Tim

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 10:04 am 
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1275cc
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Mick wrote:
I don't know about the rest, but I have never managed to get it out the same way twice :lol:


i would have to agree here :cry:

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 10:12 am 
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Bimmer Twinky
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crickey!!!

it`s sooooooooo easy to do it the "Correct" way

if you take the 2 engine mount bolts out from the passengers side & jack the engine up, you`ll then notice how much extra room there is

it really is easy-peasy

& Cush,,, who told you i took that long to do it :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 11:03 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Brisvages and the Goldie, the place to be..
TheMiniMan wrote:
crickey!!!

it`s sooooooooo easy to do it the "Correct" way

if you take the 2 engine mount bolts out from the passengers side & jack the engine up, you`ll then notice how much extra room there is

it really is easy-peasy

& Cush,,, who told you i took that long to do it :-)


i've still seemed to stuggled.... ive chipped my paint trying to get it past the fan etc.. its doable but still ****ing hard....

other things seem to hold it from going up only so far as to the carby, exhaust, gear changer, (obviously the top engine mount on the rad side is out)

Hey matt, do u keep the shroud on wen getting it out?

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:02 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
TheMiniMan wrote:
crickey!!!

it`s sooooooooo easy to do it the "Correct" way



I do freestyle rads...

Its so long between engine pull outs usually, that I can never get it right...
Either that or the work necessitates the whole engine coming out anyway.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:21 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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Lockie91 wrote:
TheMiniMan wrote:
crickey!!!

it`s sooooooooo easy to do it the "Correct" way

if you take the 2 engine mount bolts out from the passengers side & jack the engine up, you`ll then notice how much extra room there is

it really is easy-peasy

& Cush,,, who told you i took that long to do it :-)


i've still seemed to stuggled.... ive chipped my paint trying to get it past the fan etc.. its doable but still ****ing hard....

other things seem to hold it from going up only so far as to the carby, exhaust, gear changer, (obviously the top engine mount on the rad side is out)

Hey matt, do u keep the shroud on wen getting it out?



no Lockie,,, the passengers side engine steady stays there, & you leave the shroud on the rad,,, take the whole thing out , complete shroud & all still attached

you don`t have to touch anything else but --->the 2 engine mount bolts/nuts,,, the 2 lower rad bracket bolts, the 3 top rad bracket bolts (thermostat hsg bolts) & the 2 rad hose clamps--> the bottom one from the pump & the top one from either the t/stat hsg or the rad

7x bolts & 2x clamps---> that`s it,,, simple as that

that`s it,,, with the engine jacked up that side there is plenty of room,,, if it`s an early remote-extension housing type shifter car, then it is a little tight but just simply & gently turn the fan as you lift the rad,,, no scratching anything at all

you """DON`T""" have to take the little cowl screws off the rad "IN-THE-CAR" at all,,, not one bit.... i don`t even understand why you`d even think to do that, let alone cutting cowls etc,,, unless you just wanted a lesson in patience &/or stupidity

& if any of you have been having trouble with the getting the engine mount bolts back in,,, then simply drop the engine down, push/pull it till it lines up close to the subframe holes,,, use a screw-driver or punch or similar to aligne the rear hole up & stick the bolt into a 1/2" ring spanner & slip it up & in

if you have aligned the hole nice & tested it by slipping the bolt in from the outside first, just to make sure it just slips in without catching anything,,, then you`re away

the front bolt it easy as, peace of p!$$

It truely does only take 5 to 8 mins & the whole rad assy is out,,, probably a tad longer if you are doing it this way for the very first time,,, but as you do more of them you`ll find it the most easy & simple & quickest way ever

I once removed one from another persons race mini at Lakeside, he walked off to get his special "rad cowl screw removing tool" from his tow car , just up the other end of the pits,,, & i had the rad out before he got back

seriously , there really shouldn`t be any question about this job

if you have a clubby then it`s even easier,,, much the same time but slightly more room & the engine comes up a little higher than an early remote roundy

if you never go,,, then you`ll never know :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:33 pm 
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848cc
848cc

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Location: NZ
what about the early 850 type with the narrow fabricated passenger engine mount, part 22A30 which bolts transverly to the gearbox

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:56 pm 
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Bimmer Twinky
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no different,,, it still has the same (similar) lower rad bracket that bolts to it,,,

you don`t take the engine mount bracket out

just undo the 2 "lower bolts" off the rad bracket --> the one that bolts in-between the rad cowl & the engine mount bracket

am i going to have to take a video of the job for everyone to see how easy it really is???

whack it up on you-pube :-)

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:59 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Brisvages and the Goldie, the place to be..
TheMiniMan wrote:


no Lockie,,, the passengers side engine steady stays there, & you leave the shroud on the rad,,, take the whole thing out , complete shroud & all still attached
I've done it b4 yea, but I found it very akward... didn't seem to jack up high enough b4 the car got higher...

you [b]"""DON`T""" have to take the little cowl screws off the rad "IN-THE-CAR" at all,,, not one bit.... i don`t even understand why you`d even think to do that, let alone cutting cowls etc,,, unless you just wanted a lesson in patience &/or stupidity[/b]

bwhahahaha, sounds like you've done this at least once in the early days, just like me, lol...... i used to get down in there with a stubbed screw driver and take the cowling off... haven't done since tho i must say.. I've found my method, and it seems to work as good as you can expect with the car being "just" off the ground with a puny jack :(

It truely does only take 5 to 8 mins & the whole rad assy is out,,, probably a tad longer if you are doing it this way for the very first time,,, but as you do more of them you`ll find it the most easy & simple & quickest way ever

haha, even though I do believe it most likely takes this long... there would be no way I could... gime 20mins id say... wen u have a old back like mine mate, u have to have a rest from bending over the bloddy mini bay.. for every 5 minutes bending ova I have to take at least 3-5mins rest :lol: :lol: :lol: and mayb have a sip on the beer on the bench while I'm at it, :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I once removed one from another persons race mini at Lakeside, he walked off to get his special "rad cowl screw removing tool" from his tow car , just up the other end of the pits,,, & i had the rad out before he got back


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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!


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