Just trying to set up my dizzy with a test light, i got the engine sitting at 5 deg BTDC and have fitted a test light to coil, if i rotate dizzy it light stays on , there is a short break point where no light is on but looks to me like the light is on for 1/4 turn of the dizzy
what am i doing wrong

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

I gather 5dbtdc is the manufacturers recommendation?

The simonBBC one I have is 10dbtdc...

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918

Also sounds like you need to adjust yr point gap........

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its just a starting point , new motor, just want to kick it in the guts ane run the cam in , i will adjust with strobe light once running

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

Points on an electronic dizzy? Am I missing something?

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918

no points, its been converted by tony

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

I just took it from your thread title 'electric' dizzy, I 'guessed' that you would have written 'electronic' if that was (and turns out is) the case.

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no worries my bad
still want to know how to tell at what point the rotor and the cam/magnet actually shoot the power to the spark plug????

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

Not knowing what type of electronic set up it is, it would normally be - as you rotate the dizzy body clockwise - just as the lamp goes out.

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With some electronically switched dizzies you can use a small radio (tranie to pick the switch point. Tune the radio off station, place it beside the dizzie, rotate dizzie as you would to set conventional points and you will hear a burst of static as the switch fires.....

Cheers, Ian

It's the same electronic module I'm using:
You only need it nearly right to get it to start.

Put motor on TDC, #1 firing.
Mark the #1 plug lead's position on the dizzy body.
Turn dizzy until rotor lines the mark up.
Turn the body ~3mm clockwise. Refit the cap.
Start it and use your timing light.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=53920
this type of set up

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

the end of the rotor buton is very wide at what point does the rotor and cap trigger the connection

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"

Craig, do what the Doc said,,, put it "pointing" at number one & it`ll run

then set it with the timing light

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

did what the doc siad, started after 4 cranks, thanks for the quick and professional help.
i have only ran at 2000 rmp so far , running in the cam.
i will connect up the exhaust and take it for a blat to bed in the rings

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A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "Damn...that was fun!"