Hey gang, I checked the ignition timing again yesterday, (with strobe timing light, full advance at 4500 rpm) and it's still spot on where I set it 12 months ago.

I LOVE my Pertronix ignitor- best thing I ever bought- no more freakin points!
ps. the belt drive kit on the cam helps too...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I wanna put in a 29D dizzy w/o a vacum advance and I'm trying to find a petronix set for it - the guys at that US site you've been recomending never heard of 29D and their technical department in the UK havent either. They say that

"The expert in England believes that it might take the LU-142A, same as the 23D and 25D, but we can't be absolutely sure. It's tough to make a call on something we haven't seen. If you can somehow confirm that yours is the same as a 23D or 25D then the LU-142A is a good bet. "

Funiy enough the dizzy cap for 29D is listed on every supplier's list including karcraft.

What points does the 29D take? (wait, I got one here on a 1098 Clubbie motor- I'll look this later morning). Let you know.

I use a 45D without vac, and an LU143 ignitor....

If unavailable for 29D you could just grab a 45D and use that..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc can you please explain what a Petronix Ignitor?
ive read a few other threads and you seem to be an expert on them
is it the distributer?
thanks

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

I'm not an electronics expert, but..
A Pertronix ignitor is a simple electronic ignition system, it replaces the points with a Hall-effect sensor and a plastic ring with 4 magnets in it. This ring sits over the distributor cam, under the rotor button.

As each of the magnets passes the sensor it interrupts the coil's primary current, causing the coil's H/T secondary circuit to give the usual spark to the rotor.

However, there is more spark energy available because the switching occurs faster than it did with points, there is also more dwell (time for coil to build up power). You can increase plug gaps to .035" or more, even with a stock coil.

Normal bearing wear in the distributor has little effect on it.

Net result is timing doesn't vary, as there's no wearing parts- it doesn't slowly get retarded like it does with points.

Check this site for more info,
http://www.vintageperformance.com/retro ... /index.htm
if looking for Mini applications go to `distributors' page and click `Lucas'.

<EDIT> You can buy from this site, cheaper than MiniSpares or anybody in Oz.
They won't ship their wire sets or Flamethrower coils overseas though. So I just fitted a Bosch GT40-T coil and Bosch leads, I got at SuperCrap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

k thanks
kinda got the idea of what it is

_________________
Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

Hey, why do you need a new coil and leads with the elec. set? Maybe coil but why the leads - coz I've got a nice set of suppresed cap leads in black from karcraft - they look more authentic I reckon plus saves me puting anything blue or yellow into my engine bay.

Mike,
No you don't need new coil and leads. My old coil was dented and looked like a POS, the leads were OK, but I put them on my 1293 and went and bought new ones..

Sorry I haven't had a look at points in the 29D dizzy yet, I spent most of yesterday rebuilding a Sprite gearbox using the Haynes `book of lies'... give me a Mini box any day..!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK I had a squiz inside my 29D dizzy. Points are same as a 25D, (ie. non-quickfit), not sure if the cam is the same as a 25D (symmetrical) or a 45D (assymetric).
On Saturday I'll measure it. But it looks like a 25D.., with a funny looking rotor..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks man, didnt even read your post yesterday, spent the whole night with the same book of lies taking the car apart trying to find the cause of my problems with starting (well actualy the car's problems - I know the cause of mine) - despite all odds it was a mechanical problem in the starter motor drive gear (the spring is broken and the pinion is smashed) - isnt it funny however how the Haynes calls most items generic names in the diagrams and drawings but totaly different names in the instructions?

About the dizzy itd be great if you could - I'm pretty sure its a symmetrical one - will have to pick it up from my uncle to check.

I have about 3 or 4 starters here with busted pinions. Last time it broke at Wakefield Pk, got hammered around inside the housing by the lightened clutch backplate, and smashed the PCV vent above the clutch. I drove it home with the clutch full of oil..!

In my case it's caused by 15* static advance I need to make it run properly with the cam and other mods. And, the fact the Pertronix fires it on the 1st stroke.

So after some thought I've now put a kill switch in the coil feed wire.
I can spin it up on the starter and then flick the ign on, aircraft style!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool. So would you have to turn the ignition on, then let it spin for awhile and then flick the starter? Would be cool if you put a time delay (say 1 second bimetalic switch if they exist) on the whole thing - would be better for your brushes and allow a singe hand exection?

Its funny here coz my Cooper S motor has the pinion with 10 teeth inside the old style 35MG starter (the one with the dust band). My 1275LS motor still has the old style starter(?) but the pinion has 9 teeth (thats the busted pinion). Does it make much difference you reckon?

I'm thinking maybe 35MJ, ie the right starter for the LS had the 9 tooth pinion and some previous owner when puting in the older motor replaced the pinion with the later model?

Some starters had 9 teeth and some 10. Ring gear is the same. After fitting a few new pinions I got sick of it and bought a remanufactued (in UK) starter from Karcraft. So far, so good..
Better for the brushes than having it kick back and stall the starter. I guess the pretty light flywheel doesn't help the problem either.
I turn ignition on, spin it for a few secs then throw the switch.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.