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 Post subject: Pot joint Boot Ties
PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 3:56 pm 
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Can you get away with regular plastic cable ties or do you really need the metal ties that need three hands and two pairs of pliers and a screw driver in a confined space under the car?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 4:15 pm 
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Plastic ties are usually OK, just need to get then nice and tight. I have them on a few of my cars and they seem to last OK.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 5:11 pm 
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On the outer (larger), plastic ties are OK but not brilliant. There will be some leakage from the area under the head of the tie. On the smaller (inner) end, tie wire is the onlt alternative I've found that will fit.

To avoid the leakage when using PVC or nylon ties, I use Stainless steel ties as they close up with a uniform profile. Failing that, tie wire works well, just looks crap.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 5:15 pm 
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Found I had some stainless steel flat ties - once you push the tail through the head bit no way are they coming apart :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 7:22 pm 
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They should be really cheap from any CV place. I got a box of them years ago for $20

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 10:43 pm 
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what type of boots have you got. The originals had the small end clamped inside the boot and the other after market ones I have seen have the small end outside on the axle.
The original type do not like having a cable tie in the gease, they go brittle after a while.
I would go with the metal type any day.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 8:37 am 
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I have the original type boots - I have used the provided metal ties on all the seals as I did them on the bench - it was just that final one under the car that had me scratching my head as there is very little room under there to get at them and bits of the car are in the way - but all sweet now

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 1:13 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
To avoid the leakage when using PVC or nylon ties, I use Stainless steel ties as they close up with a uniform profile. Failing that, tie wire works well, just looks crap.


I don't mind using tie wire, it is simple to keep a roll around, they're available from hardware shops and I reckon you can make them look really professional if you roll them right :) Old skool too..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 2:20 pm 
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Mick wrote:
GT mowog wrote:
Failing that, tie wire works well, just looks crap.


I reckon you can make them look really professional if you roll them right :) Old skool too..


Yes, you can. The trick is to use nice new, non-kinked wire, run it around twice (so that there's 2 loops) and when twisting the end, pull it while twisting, allowing the twist to come in.

Iron wire works best (concreter's use it for tieing reo), as it will twist without breaking, but it cannot be plated and so rusts - then looks crap :(

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 11:07 pm 
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GT mowog wrote:
Mick wrote:
GT mowog wrote:
Failing that, tie wire works well, just looks crap.


I reckon you can make them look really professional if you roll them right :) Old skool too..


Yes, you can. The trick is to use nice new, non-kinked wire, run it around twice (so that there's 2 loops) and when twisting the end, pull it while twisting, allowing the twist to come in.

Iron wire works best (concreter's use it for tieing reo), as it will twist without breaking, but it cannot be plated and so rusts - then looks crap :(


GT's fencing contractors :lol: He is into bondage and can tie anything up

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 6:22 am 
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david rosenthal wrote:

GT's fencing contractors :lol: He is into bondage and can tie anything up


:lol: :lol: :lol:

Yes, but the way they use tie wire.........looks like crap!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:07 pm 
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As above...soft iron wire works well and easily, just tuck the twist towards the rear of the Mini.

I leave the kit ties in the box and gave up on plastic zip ties since the heads often came off with a little knock from whatever.

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