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 Post subject: Mechanical Fuel Pump
PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 7:39 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Canberra, ACT
I have bought a mechanical fuel pump from Minisport but the inlet and outlet are in the wrong positions. The factory pump has the inlet and outlet at about 60 degrees to each other, not 180 degrees.
http://www.minisport.com.au/category38_5.htm

Has anyone else fitted this pump? If so, which way did you face the inlet/outlet?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:00 am 
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I've used them with a HS4 Carb. The inlet faced toward the radiator and the outlet pipe goes around the back of the xhaust pipe as far as you can get it away from it.

Clearly not the best, always a concern, but I have to say never given any trouble.

Yet.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 5:52 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Canberra, ACT
Yeah, that is how I have mounted it. It is a shame the outlets are like that, it is otherwise a good fit.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 6:39 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Perth
Is it possible to have extractors and use a mechanical fuel pump?

My fuel hose that goes to the carby is so close to the extractors and there doesnt appear to be any way of avoiding it.

Here's a pic:

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg10 ... GP0611.jpg

what can i do?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:13 pm 
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Yes, it is, just tighter. Some heat sheilding will also help of course, however if it gets that tight, you'd be better off going electric.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:47 am 
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848cc
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Location: Canberra, ACT
I think I have exactly the same fuel pump, I spent the weekend sorting it out. Just remove the fuel hose that goes from the pump to the carby, undo the six screws around the outside of the pump and rotate the pump top cover anti-clockwise. The fuel outlet will then pass between the extractors and engine with reasonable clearance. I fitted braided fuel hose inside thermal insulated sheilding.

Or you can just fit a blanking plate and go for an electric pump...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:54 pm 
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1098cc
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I have a question about my mech fuel pump, so i thought i'd just tack it on here rather than make a whole new thread....

I need to replace my fuel pump, but i am struggling to get to the far bolt, the one closest to the exhaust. Mine has extractors so i assume this is half the problem. Is there some trick i can use to make getting it off and the new one on easier?? or will i have to move the extractors out of the way???
Any help would be great.. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:00 pm 
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MrFail wrote:
I have a question about my mech fuel pump, so i thought i'd just tack it on here rather than make a whole new thread....

I need to replace my fuel pump, but i am struggling to get to the far bolt, the one closest to the exhaust. Mine has extractors so i assume this is half the problem. Is there some trick i can use to make getting it off and the new one on easier?? or will i have to move the extractors out of the way???
Any help would be great.. :D

If it is the early "Goss" pump with the removable lid held by a screw in the middle you can modify the pump to make it easier to remove and replace, but you need to remove it first! These pumps are the ones that you can fit a rebuild kit to.
You take a file to the cast web above the head of the bolt so you can get a decent swing on the spanner from above.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:01 pm 
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I got a Sidchrome 1/2" dwarf ring/OE spanner and cut it in half. Then I welded the 2 bits together in an L shape.
Finally I heated and bent the ring end so it has no angle offset, and ground it thin all round.
Worked for me, but these days I use electric pumps.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:05 pm 
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998cc
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I've used mech fuel pumps exclusively for at least 10 years (prob closer 15 now!) without any dramas.

As the resident gurus have already pointed out, the bolt you're trying to remove can be a sod!

I use an assortment of spanners, keep a 13mm nearby too as it often will fit and allow you to turn the bolt when a 1/2" A/F wont. A universal on a socket makes the job easy-peasy.

cheers

Jacob

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:07 pm 
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1098cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
, but these days I use electric pumps.

Well mabe you should have told me that before i had already bought a new mechanical one.!!!!! :lol: :lol:
Or mabe i should have asked first :oops: :oops: :lol:

i cannot remember exactly what it looks like, i will have to have a look tomorrow.
So basicly the consensus is that it is going to be a pain in the ass for me hey???. :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:08 pm 
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1098cc
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VulcanBB18 wrote:
I've used mech fuel pumps exclusively for at least 10 years (prob closer 15 now!) without any dramas.

As the resident gurus have already pointed out, the bolt you're trying to remove can be a sod!

I use an assortment of spanners, keep a 13mm nearby too as it often will fit and allow you to turn the bolt when a 1/2" A/F wont. A universal on a socket makes the job easy-peasy.

cheers

Jacob


Thanks for the tips, i'll try it out tomorrow. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:08 pm 
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I found that once I filed away the cast web on the pump it was really easy to swing the spanner. No more troubles after that. I can get the pump off in a few minutes these days.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:10 pm 
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1098cc
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Morris 1100 wrote:
I found that once I filed away the cast web on the pump it was really easy to swing the spanner. No more troubles after that. I can get the pump off in a few minutes these days.


Hmmm, i might have to do a bit of modding to my new one before i put it on... For future benefit. Thanks :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 9:15 pm 
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MrFail wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
I found that once I filed away the cast web on the pump it was really easy to swing the spanner. No more troubles after that. I can get the pump off in a few minutes these days.


Hmmm, i might have to do a bit of modding to my new one before i put it on... For future benefit. Thanks :D

If you are fitting a different pump be aware that you may need to change the spacer to a thicker one and possibly need longer bolts.
The Goss pump uses as thin spacer. (about 6mm?)
The SU/British types use a thick spacer (about 15mm?)


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