How many of yous have tried Triger Tooth belt kits and what do you think of them compared to the old Chain system.,

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I run 2 of em, on the 1360 and the 1412 stroker.
These are the early Triger kits without vernier adjustment.
I use an offset key to dial the cam in.
I have seen a vernier type one chew the dowel pin holes out, so I prefer the originals.

IMO these kits are better than a duplex chain for timing accuracy, but like all timing belts, do need periodic replacement. But they don't tell us what the correct interval is-
I did 40,000 miles on the original Pirelli belt, and it looked like new when removed.
I now have a Kevlar competition belt (made by Gates in Japan) on the 1360, Mini Mania (the only agent) says it's good for 50,000 miles. They also say the standard ones are only good for 20,000 miles, go figure.

You do need to be careful removing or refitting the pulleys- any bruising on the teeth with chew the belt up in short order.

I'm not sure what belts they come with now, I tried a Chinese made belt once and it was loose when fitted- so I sent it back.
I have been told that Pirelli/Dayco belts are available again, in UK.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've got one aswell, much quieter, but as Drmini has said periodical changing of the belt is required, but you have to do that with a timing chain too but easier to change a belt as long as the seals aren't leaking.

I run one of the minispares ones in one of my minis. Pretty easy to fit, I haven't had to replace the belt yet.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

The belts are a standard size IE the pitch ,number of teeth and the width. You can buy a Gates kevlar belt as a standard "off the shelf" item. Contact a company called RYDELL industries and they can supply and a LOT cheaper than the usual spare part places.
I use a 8mm pitch X 115 or 120 tooth HTD belts on my honda conversions and get the gates kevlar belts from rydell in SA for around $30.00.

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Research is the difference between speculation and investment. Anyone who copys some one else will always be second
www.minisprintgt.com

I have a vernier kit that I use when setting up cams, then once I work out what timing I want I go back to a vernier chain.

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I've been using the original type since '84. Nice and quiet and the timing is rock solid.

The original info sheet that came with the kit (I still have it) specifies belt replacement every 25,000 miles.

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Cheers,
Rod.
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'63 Morris 850 (Old Secondhand CAR)

The belt kits are a lot quieter than chains in isolation, but once you add all the other noises associated with minis the overall noise reduction is marginal.

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1970 Mini Deluxe - 1275, Weber, Clive 346 cam, MS 4-pot slotted discs, Megajolt ignition Now with new improved Mambas... almost on the road
1966 Van with Traveller rear seat conversion
2008 Prado GXL
All in various states of repair...

A while back, Karcraft attempted to source this Gates kevlar 41052X19mm belt here, and apparently nobody at Gates knew anything about it.
So I bought 2 at MiniMania in USA, cost was $75 each. OUCH...

[edit] Thanks David, Rydell Industries NSW are just down the road from me, I'll drop in there with my sample kevlar belt next week...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I bought a MED straight cut gear kit for the crossflow monster, no belts or chains for me. Anyone here used one of these? Oops sorry for the thread hijack.

I have used these kits since the beginning of the 80s when I use to race speedway. The belts are branded PIRELLI then it also mentions DAYCO - ISORAN. I swear by these kits as they do make timing more accurate. As far as breakage or wear I have only ever had one instance where some of the teeth came off Cam stopped and bent some valves Etc. But this only happened because I was involved in a smash on the track and the distributor copped the brunt of the hit and stopped spinning while the engine was doing about 6500 revs. It locked the cam up and the belt was the weal spot so off came the teeth. I consider this as a good thing to have as I can imagine a chain would have held on for longer and caused more problems and damage.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I've used the Triger set-up on a Mark II S engine for years, never had any dramas with it at all.

Interesting to hear the interval change is 25,000 miles. I think I installed mine 10 years ago & have not touched it

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

These belts (although super short at 52 teeth) don't seem to wear on the tooth flanks like early OHC motors do. This may be because there is no tensioner pulley on the outside, flexing the belt inwards.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.