I just need to check so I can borrow a big enough wrench before I knock off work today:

I have a stock 8.4" setup. The hub nut torque needed is:

193 lb/ft or 260 Nm for CV with one pin hole,
150 lb/ft or 205 Nm for CV with two pin holes

Is that right?

Thanks.

Yes.

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Steve

ONLY the Italian made ones!

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How do I know if mine are Italian?

These days CVs are made wherever, I don't take the risk- 1 hole or 2, I torque to 150, then go to the next splitpin hole.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So if they only need 150, why do some manuals / the factory specify them to be 193?
Seems over kill is all and there must be a reason.

(or is it just that I'm looking at a late manual when the cars had 13" wheels like mine and therefor need to be tighter?)

I believe when they went from 2 to 1 pin hole, it was found that the torque required to get to the next hole slot (from 150lb/ft) could be up to 190 or so.

The way some currently supplied nuts fit their CVs, I would be worried they would strip if you did 190, then went to the next hole....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Makes sense to me Doc, I'll start with 150 and go from there then.
Thanks for the help people!

What about drum brakes? The nuts supplied with my new CV looked like cheese and were quite small - I used the old nuts and washer - they had more meat in them. The old CVs looked heat treated all over where as the new ones appear to be "spot" treated where the balls run.- feel a little uneasy about them but that's what's supplied

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

60lb/ft then next pin hole for drum brake CVs, whether they have ball bearings or tapered rollers in, torque setting is the same.
(It is CV nut size related, not bearing related)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey Doc, is it a good idea to linish a bit off the nut instead of over tightening it to reach the next hole?

I don't think so, unless you do it with a micrometer in your hand.
The nut face needs to be dead square to the CV axis. Otherwise the clamping force on the bearings (and the disc rotor) are uneven.
I don't believe 190+ lb/ft is either needed or warranted.
I'd be more inclined to drill another split pin hole, I've done that in the past.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you don't torque them correctly, there ain't enough strech and so the bearings won't last.

Materials and techniques change and it is important to keep up to date. They don't make these changes for the fun of it, there is always a reason.

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Did mine this arvo, got them to 170 foot pounds with pin allignment, decided they were going to go way past 190 to get to the next hole.

Free tip for newcomers: when you fit the disc hub, make sure its at 45 degrees to the split pin hole, otherwise you can't get the pin in.
I only made that mistake on one side thankfully.