Great Thanks

Ok, so I climbed up and got one of those virgin A+ cranks out.... I measured and photographed it all. Oh and I got a couple of pic's showing the difference in size between the flange on the thick flange 1100s v's 1275 A+

Ok...

Here's the Mic, with slip gauge in, showing that its been Zero'd correctly...







Here's the A+ crank...





Here's the journel size..




Here's the journel size again (I was having trouble getting a good photo, not much room up there )










So the Haynes manual says "2.0011 to 2.0017" for an A+, the Factory Metro workshop says "2.0011 to 2.0017" for an A+ crank

The Black book says "2.0005"----2.001" " for a 1275cc Cooper's', Moke, Clubman GT
The Morris 1100 & 1100s manual says "2.0005 to 2.0010" for a "1275 powder unit"...


So there it all is.
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And here a couple of shots of the thick flange 1100s block v's the A+ flange. Sorry Tito, I would have got more shots of the A+ for you, but its really tight for space up in the pallet racking and I wasn't to keen on trying to move anything heavy while I was up there incase I fell

Here's the A+ flange




and the 1100s flange

OK my books don't cover A+, except the 1275 A series high performance manual by Des Hammill.
on p19 he states "the main bearing sizes are nominally 2.0005-2.001" on all 1275A+ engines."

I have seen A+ cranks like yours measure at 2.001", but never any bigger.

Leyland's black book says 1275cc Cooper S, 1275 Moke, Clubman GT are all 2.0005-2.001" also.

So, measure all you like, but provided the running clearance is correct, A series main bearings work fine in an A+. Just don't throw em in without measuring.
If you are reconditioning, you would be probably be regrinding the crank to the next undersize anyway, so size em to suit.

You guys probably have the only NEW A+ cranks in the country...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Using a 1-2" micrometer to measure a 2" + main journal just doesnt cut it, winding a mic past its allowable scale wont give you an accurate reading.

New cranks still pop up now and then, a unmachined billit 1275 crank are the real gold tho. (I know someone who has a couple )

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

Well, as I said earlier, they ARE different. The Mains ARE bigger & the Crank Pins ARE smaller.

No question and I'm not interested in argueing any point on it. Guess what you like, but I know what they are and the difference between them.

Phat Kat is right here on the Mains and therefore wins the pack of Life Savers

The Leyland Black Book stops well short of A+ to the point of almost being the wrong manual for the engine.

Hey, this wasn't supposed to go south

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all

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850man,

It's accurate enough for the injection moulds I make at work. The screw's in Micrometers are precission cut past the end of the scale. <correction> ""GOOD"" micrometers

If you like, or are still not entirely satified with the measurement taken, I will gladly crawl back up there and measure it again with a set of 2-3" mic's instead.

hehehe I wonder if we know the same person.... cos we don't own the "only" virgin A+ cranks surely

Hey, a whole .001" over? I think you are drawing a long bow here...
I wonder which mic you would use if it was 1.999"- a different one then??
Or would you still use your 2-3" one and wind it in my .001".

I'm on PK's team here.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Are they "mint" flavoured?


And hey, its all good, no teams around here.. Just a good bit of discussion we learn to service mic's as part of doing out time, so we know their in's and outs a bit more. Mechanics/Engine Reconditioners are just taught how to read them and "hopefully" taught that they aren't G clamps so don't sweat it 850man

As I said I honestly didn't know what size the mains ""actually"" were hence why I wasn't saying anything either way till I could measure a crank for myself and like I told you last night Doc, it was the first I'd ever heard of it too... I thought GT had been sniffing the brake cleaner again All good
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Tito, another difference I just remebered... and its probably the most important.... The rocker cover on the A+ has a great big sticker that says "A+" fool proof evidence that the block you're looking at is an A+

Oh and don't forget the head studs, they're different too. Another difference is the intake/exhaust manifold. Now, I don't know if this was on every A+998, but certain on the metro's, the exhaust manifold was different to the early ones. Its still a cast manifold, but the centre branch is longer and a different shape. Someone might be able to shed some light on whether this was the case for all A+998's or just the metro ones.

REAL Mini motors are all A series. They stopped in 1980, RIP.

Them A+ ones are only MG/Rovers....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I have quite a few Leyland A+ ones here (they have the Leyand Symbol cast in to the block) from late 1979 - but be warned, the machining on these, while a good finish, are usually out of spec.........

Hey, don't knock the A+, a lot of good things came from them;-

Cranks,
Rods,
Improved Rod Bolts & Nuts,
A proper Timing Chain Tensioner (although phased in on the tail end of A series),
water pumps (without by pass )
Cylinder Heads with block by-pass
More factory cams to add to the confusion,
Better Head Studs / Nuts,
Quieter Drop Gears,
Primary Gear Seal Protector (for what ever it's worth),
Improved Main Bearings (in the later ones),
Simpler Distributor mount

The A series Block is a little better IMO, but for most applications either is very good.

Funny thing is, as far as the Mini is concerned, the A+ was in production and fitted to Mini's just a little longer than the A series

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Wow

What an interesting read

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Master of the Moggie Army & Founder of Awesomestock2010

I'll be smashing out 140HP with the rebuild of my A+ stroker.

Lets see how long this one lasts

140GR's

hopefully longer than what its taking for you to get it back

we were supposed to have a race, and mine's been sitting here for years collecting dust waiting