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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:57 pm 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Fitter here... :P
I would hold the middle in the vice to protect the bush, use oxy acetylene or oxy LPG (or a bloody big air/LPG torch like GR's) to heat the tip only. Then quench it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 10:01 pm 
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:) Knew you'd hear the call


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 9:07 am 
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Location: wasleys S.A.
Mick I should have explained the heat treating better, but GR has done it for me :)
With the fish oil go to a fishing tackle or bait shop and buy a bottle of tuna oil or a quick trip to japan they have plenty. :lol: The fish oil won't burn as much as mineral oil and it has a better hardening quality. We used whale oil to do all the cams and cranks when I was working at Rev-master cams [don frazer's] . It stinks like hell but!!
With the pads I use some fine emery tape on a flat file and polish them before hardening. Then polish the surface each time you treat it. It will give you a better indication of the required colour.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 6:58 pm 
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I just thought I would put this up there for the next person who searches this thread.

I had to touch up some rocker pads myself. They were off another motor and I noticed that the pads were just a little worn not hacked and deformed just a little worn.

If yours look like this, you may not need to grind them. You can just polish them out using a Diamond Lap.

Sadly, I didn't get a photo before I started, I didn't think to take phtoto's till after I started..... But heres some pictures of how and what they looked like afterwards..


In this photo, you can see that I have the Diamond Lap at the edge of the bench so that I can roll my hand down with the rocker to follow the existing profile. Try not to rock it sideways while you're doing this part or you'll have other problems....

Even if you think yours might be a bit far gone for using this method, I would suggest you still at least start like this, because you can remove material with one of these faster than you might think , and it might save you more time later if you catch my drift :)



<EDIT> Mick's are only a tiny wee bit worse than mine were as turns out (now that I've looked back at the orig photo)

Quote:
Image


Image









..... And here's the finished result, again sorry I didn't get a before photo.



Image


Last edited by Phat Kat on Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:11 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
A diamond lap. Is it a fine sharpening stone?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:19 pm 
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Mick wrote:
A diamond lap. Is it a fine sharpening stone?


Its similar to a sharpening stone (as in ally oxide one you'd use for your chisels) but instead of ally oxide, its a steel (sometimes aluminium) back with diamonds encrusted in it. They stay sharper longer, they do in a lot situations provide a finer finish and you can remove more material quicker.... BUT WAIT THERES MORE :) unlike normal sharpening stones, these hold their shape. If you rubbed a normal sharpening stone in the same spot, you'd wear a low spot in it,,,,, not the case with a Diamond lap.

As far as oiling them goes, you just use water or kero (I was feeling particularly Greek this afternoon so I used Windex because it was handy and in a convienient squirty bottle :lol: ) oil is too heavy for these most of the time.

Sometimes I'll use this in the place of a file too. If I have any burs or bad fretting on the tail of a crankshaft, I'll rub it with one of these because it will only remove high spots.... (sure, if you sat there for a week you might start marking the rest of the crank :lol: )


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:08 pm 
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What is the actual size of these Diamond Laps PK?, and where can you buy them, they look like they'd be ideal for dressing up old knives.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:37 pm 
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goodie wrote:
What is the actual size of these Diamond Laps PK?, and where can you buy them, they look like they'd be ideal for dressing up old knives.


Well, mine's about 2" x 6".... you can get them from decent hardware stores (I don't know that Bummings have them.. they might)... pretty sure I got this one from a local place that do welding and general metal working equipment... I'm reasonably sure you can get them thru blackwards, I'm pretty sure thats where we get them from at work.

I know some cabnet makers use them too, so I don't think they're too hard to find. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 11:56 pm 
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Phat Kat wrote:
goodie wrote:
What is the actual size of these Diamond Laps PK?, and where can you buy them, they look like they'd be ideal for dressing up old knives.


Well, mine's about 2" x 6".... you can get them from decent hardware stores (I don't know that Bummings have them.. they might)... pretty sure I got this one from a local place that do welding and general metal working equipment... I'm reasonably sure you can get them thru blackwards, I'm pretty sure thats where we get them from at work.

I know some cabnet makers use them too, so I don't think they're too hard to find. :)


They damn good for puting a fine edge on tungstan tips as well :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 4:28 am 
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Yeap, Bunny Rabbits (Bunnings) have them. About 12 bucks :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:27 am 
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Thanks for that fella's.


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