I think you have a Clubman-if so this is how I have the brass tank attached on the LH side-then I also have a Clubman heater core attached on the RH side.

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Awesome - thanks for the pics ls1380! Yes, it is a clubman and the tank I have is the same shape as yours but plastic. Will mounting it here reduce air flow and cause issues? This is where I had in mind for mounting it.

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Justin

No problems with airflow,still plenty of room around the grille for that on a Clubman
When I was driving the LS around Tasmania last year,the water temp was spot on, driving thru Melbourne and the Great Ocean Rd was the same,but when we arrived in Adelaide it was 39 degrees and the water temp didn't take long to get up once we hit a few red traffic lights.
I think that when you get those stinking hot days(plenty in Perth) the heat coming up from the road is going to make most Mini cooling systems struggle

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Plenty of those stinking hot days in Adelaide as well!
I think on those days it's time to leave the mini in the garage and take the company car with the air con! (or just stay inside with the a/c!)

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Justin

I run one mainly because my car always had a habit of spitting coolant out the overflow when the engine stopped. Like Mick, I have mine mounted underneath the passenger-side wheel arch and just never have to think about it.

After fitting one, I wouldn't run without it.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

hey lads any interest in one of these?

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... 182#786182

will be a small compact design to fit all mini's.

made in Alloy 2 row 40mm is fine & 50mm thick.

price is 100 for one for me but more will drop price.

"I run one mainly because my car always had a habit of spitting coolant out the overflow when the engine stopped...... "

There's another reason ?????

Buy the proper type of cap, find a 250ml plastic container (mine held brake fluid) and a bit of plastic hose. The right bottle fits neatly between the wiper motor and the the crossmember brace. Technically (if maybe not aesthetically) its exactly what most modern manufacturers fit to their cars these days.

Cheers, Ian

The reason it did this was because the coolant boils around the cylinder walls when the water pump stops. I already used the correct (new) cap, with the cooling system in tip-top shape with no overheating problems, ever. The spittle was the only issue, requiring me to keep topping up.

Not any more

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I've not run one since the new rebuild and I've not had a need to nor will ever again.

Correct me if I'm wrong but when filling coolant, you only need to fill to the top of the cores, this leaves about... 200mls maybe 300mls (wild guess) left in the top portion of the radiator empty. For the coolant to expand this much and overflow out the top of the radiator near the neck then you probably have a problem in the first place such as:

- the wrong radiator cap
- a worn cap spring
- a bad cap rubber seal
- poor water flow (rusty water pump?)
- stuck or poor performing thermostat
- "modified" radiator fan" with shorter or fewer fins
- incorrectly spaced radiator fan compared to the shroud (too far in or too far out)
- missing a radiator rubber shroud between radiator and body
- or your radiator needs attention
- or your block's water jacket is rusty
- OR more than one of the above.

Caveat: I run an under bonnet matic style heater which adds about 1-2 litres extra water in the system which helps. Even sitting idle in heavy traffic my car does not overheat or have any noticeable coolant loss, and she is not a sedate mini power wise.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

If you don't run an overflow tank, you fill the rad to about 1/2 way up the top tank. Later radiators had a level mark inside, below the neck.
When the coolant expands with heat it expels the trapped air past the cap, and the radiator is full when hot.
I don't have any overheating problem with either the 1360 or 1412 motors, like Lillee I have the Minimatic/Mini K underbonnet heater.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think most people's problem is with when they look in the radiator it isn't full all the way to the top because they are used to the normal expansion tank setup on modern cars so expect the radiator to be all the way to the brim. I myself have done this, I kept trying to keep the radiator full but just found myself topping it up before every drive. Since the new motor has gone in and I've put in the clubman heater core, I've checked the water level on a few occasions and it's been the same everytime just a bit down from the neck on the radiator. I'm still going to put on an expansion tank for that little bit extra water... It can't hurt.

The main purpose of the 'Expansion Tank', or as it is correctly known 'Header Tank', is to prevent Air, in any quantities, from getting in to the coolant. Yes, Mini's came out without a factory Header Tank, however they were (finally!) fitted late in the piece from about 96 on. Fortunately the stock Mini Cooling system does last somewhat without one, however Mokes and Morris 1100 do go a LOT longer without suffering head, water pump and radiator problems, because they have a Header Tank.

If you run one of those (silly) alloy radiators or a (bling) alloy head, then a header tank is no longer an option.

Case in point. Look at every modern car, what are they fitted with? Alloy Head and sometimes an alloy radiator. These ALL have header tanks, usually of the non-pressurised type.

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