Just put a NGK spark plug in my car twisted it
By hand as you do felt nice.

Then proceded to do it up and it felt to tight.

The thing has a lip of weld in the thread
And now my spark plug won't do up, it has threaded
The top of the thread only!

I tried another new spark plug with a good thread
,
same deal.

Stuck at autobarn while dads cylinder head
Mate is gonna jet down.

I did not do it up far at all, it's just the top
Of the thread.

I hope he can clean it up???

Autobarn said NGK will pay if something is wrong, such a pain! Im pretty
Pissed off.

I'll make sure I check the threads from now on then.

hope you havent stripped the thread that would suk

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PrOuDlY aSkInG qUeStIoNs FoR uR aMuEsMeNt

Good luck with that NG. and let us know what is going on

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Since light travels faster than sound, people appear bright until you hear them speak

Perhaps its only ruined where the thread takes up. Run a hardened sparp point (like an awl) from a good spot on the thread and screw it backwards up the thread till you feel or spot the section which causes the thread to cross. Then pick it away or file it out carefully. You can rely on the remaining threads to take the load. Spark plugs will seal just fine even ifg they are little more than finger tight anyway. Anything more is good for amti rattle only, so you don't need much.

If it's trickier than that, for years I have made what's called an "Emergency Tap" to get me out of a bind. Its an old trick, and is pretty well known.

Take an old spark plug, and taper the first half dozen threads by rolling it between your thumb and index finger while holding it against a bench grinder or a linisher if you can find one. Then, cut a groove with a hacksaw along the thread to a shallow depth.

The taper will allow the thread to pick up on the remaining good threads, and the groove will allow swarf to be removed. It works exactly as a real tap would, the difference is that it will wear out after a few uses (although they tend to last years in my collection, they come out once in a while). I hope it helps.

Here's an example made for a 3/8 UNF bolt. This one I used to create a helicoil thread for a 5/16th UNF insert. 5/16th and 3/8th have the same TPI as opposed to every other UNF insert.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

mic at northside cylinder heads fixed it up for me!

legend he said it was nothing, he said i was lucky i did not do it up much at all or would have been head off.

towed it back to the shop 40mins later fixed! but was surprised with the plug and reckons it happens now & then as well.

he use to own a original LS so he knows mini's loves them! even gave my car a little tune as it was running pretty rich.

not missing a beat now he also said my dash pot oil is to thick ( i was told to use engine oil)

he had some of his grinding gear ( really expensive oil) he used that, he said it is very close to sewing machine oil or su oil.

told me to buy some sewing machine oil or su oil though.

so happy days

Happy days indeed.
Well done on the fix.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Probably not woth pursuing now but ngk are very good with their quality control and would have sorted you out if the repair was exy. They have recalled entire lines for minor faults before.

yeh good idea. kirby ill hit them up..

might get some spark plugs free out of it

was pretty upset but i was stressing over nothing it seems.

just rotten luck

When you tramped your foot it would have run pretty lean.....low power. It must feel much more responsive now.

Thick oil (like motor oil) makes it rich, not lean.
ATF generally works OK and is easy to find.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeh i was just using what i put in my engine 20-50 engine oil.

it is to thick & the dash pot is not returning fast enough.

nah mg it had power but it felt slower it's much more responsive now.

he said it needs a good tune, he cleaned it up a bit, it was running to rich booked in for tomorrow though.

At least let them know they have at least one faulty product out there and their QA guys need a kickedy split

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I thought that the thick oil would have prevented the needle from rising quickly when you planted your foot...less response. Have I got that backwards? The needle would drop too slowly....too rich, once the vacuum steadied?
I use ATF too.

Correct, which means a lower volume of air flowing over the bridge but in the face of higher vaccum, at higher velocity therefore drawing more fuel. Hence richer



The piston damper is asymmetrical -- it will fall faster than it rises.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

AH huh! Thanks for clarifying it for me.