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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 10:36 am 
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Unlocked and clean up Again :roll: Last Chance


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:25 am 
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david rosenthal wrote:
Hang on fellas, this is turning into a sh*t fight again. Now please stop and take a big deep breath.

OK we all know that the net has all sorts of irrevelant and superceed info.

So lets make a rule here so that we discuss only the correct facts. Now bohler steel do have their own official site with all the properties of their steel range and the correct proceedures for the various heat treatments.
So do just about every steel producer in the world,except for china cos it's nigh impossible to treat crap.

This is how sh*t fights start. No evidence to back it up. If you disagree with what has been posted then show and explain why.

Now I think that we should get back on track regarding the original topic and the side issues from that as the benifit of any technical knowlege can benifit all in some way or the other. If you do not agree with the engineering /physics laws then re-write them or just ignore them and do what you want.
Ok i'm out in the work shop trying to build engines for people for the up coming race meetings,but i an getting phone calls wanting to know what i'm going to do about the piece of crankshaft.
Iwill try to take it over tomorrow to be tested, but i do have an engine on the dyno so if i don't make it it will have to be tuesday or wednesday,ihave nothing to fear as i know what it tested last time,i will get aaron to post a photo when he can of the crank.

David you would like facts to be posted:
BMC made performance cranks for their race engines EN40b nitrided
Cosworth made all their race cranks and still do out of EN40B nitrided
Arrows of F1 fame still make cranks out of EN40B nitrided
Paul Ivy from england who has been making cranks all kinds of cranks for many years now EN40B nitrided
Now the yanks are making 4140 with 1% alloy so they can nitride their cranks.
Auscranks [Australia] make their cranks from 4140 and nitride them, i don't know if they are using the new 4140 but i shall ask the question.
So will some of the experts out there please tell these people they are doing it all wrong so we dont wind up with all these dud cranks on the market.
At least i have a go design my own cranks put them in an engine and try them if they don't work it's back to the drawing board same with my cams and valve spring some work some don't but at least i'm doing some thing to improve the breed not sitting back telling people how they should be doing it when they have nothing to back up what they are saying.now i'll go back to to building engines
Graham Russell


NOW BACK ON TRACK FELLAS :) :)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:43 am 
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GR wrote:
I will try to take it over tomorrow to be tested, but i do have an engine on the dyno so if i don't make it it will have to be tuesday or wednesday,ihave nothing to fear as i know what it tested last time,i will get aaron to post a photo when he can of the crank.
Graham Russell


That's OK GR, we all know that you have a business to run, I didn't expect to to drop everything and do it right away, when you get a chance :D

BTW, do you have anything you'd like to change to the tests I have suggested?

Do you agree to what I have put on the table in respect of costs?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 1:29 pm 
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The Sample

Here's the piece of crank to be tested.
No need to change the tests suugested, I'm sure your guy will do what is needed to get the results needed...

Thanks to Aaron for his interWEB picture wizardry!

Graham Russell

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:09 pm 
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GR wrote:
Image

The Sample

Here's the piece of crank to be tested.
No need to change the tests suugested, I'm sure your guy will do what is needed to get the results needed...

Thanks to Aaron for his interWEB picture wizardry!

Graham Russell


OK. Could you be kind enough to let us know when it has been dropped off. Again, I stress no one here expects you to drop everything and run it across.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:23 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
I think that if an extra main bearing is needed it probably should be behind the flywheel.

(just one crank after another)


ala similar design to the old Austin1800 , but make it better yesh?

for those of you who don`t know, they (the austin 1800s) have their spigot shaft (the clutch runs on it) from the outer end of the flywheel assy , sticking into the end of the crank & running in a bush, then the other end into a big bearing in the outer case a bit like an oversized outrigger bearing, with the 3-drop gear , in a case of their own, outboard of the whole flywheel assy, sort of backwards to a mini but "Normal" (funny enough) for a normal car`s clutch mechanisim

so you could make a 5-main &&&&&&&& have a really strong (bearing-ed) spigot shaft outboard, holding (or attempting to hold) the flywheel end from wobbling around yeah :-)

ok, so now lets make it a small V8 crank with all new billet alloy machined block & cases, & &&& :-)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:25 pm 
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graham,the code No. for en40b was changed when UK adopted the BS standard.
All the steels you listed, en40b, and 4140 have almost exactly the same chemical composition and just have a different code No. for the country classification of the steel.
en40b is now classified under the BS as BS 970 722M24
When you look at the chemical composition of en40b pre 1955 it had .040% nickel added to it. After the new standards were adopted the Ni was removed.

4140 High Tensile Steel

Pre hardened and tempered 4140 can be further surface hardened by flame or induction hardening and by nitriding.

Related Specifications
Australia AS 1444-1996-4140
Germany DIN 17212 W.Nr 1.7223 Type 41CrMo4
DIN 17200-1654 W.Nr 1.7225 Type 42CrMo4
DIN 17200 W.Nr 1.7227 Type 42CrMoS4
Great Britain BS970-1955 EN19A
BS970 Part 3:1991 709M40
International ISO 683/II Type 3
ISO 683/IV Type 3a
ISO 683/IV Type 3b
Japan JIS G 4103 SNCM4
JIS G 4105 SCM4
JIS G 4105 SCM440
USA AISI 4140
ASTM A29/A29M-91 4140
ASTM A322 4140
ASTM A331 4140 (Cold Finish)
SAE 4140
Chemical Composition Min.% Max.%
Carbon 0.36 0.44
Silicon 0.10 0.40
Manganese 0.65 1.10
Chromium 0.75 1.20
Molybdenum 0.15 0.35
Phosphorous 0 0.04
Sulphur 0 0.04

EN40 B [post 1955] BS 970 722M24
C .2-.3
Si .10- .35
Mn .40-.65
Cr 2.9-3.5
Mo .40-.70
P .050
S .050

Apart from a little more chrome in en40b both are classified as a nitriding steel. There are a lot more other compound steels that are also classed as nitriding steels.

So the crank you had made[refer pics of your race crank] by auscranks is that made from AISI 4140, and had it ammonia gas nitrided.
How long and at what temp was process to acheive the depth of nitriding that you stated.

The aluminium compound version of 4140 that you refered to ,it's code is #135.
http://crucibleservice.com/eselector/pr ... t135c.html

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:40 pm 
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TheMiniMan wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
I think that if an extra main bearing is needed it probably should be behind the flywheel.

(just one crank after another)


ala similar design to the old Austin1800 , but make it better yesh?

for those of you who don`t know, they (the austin 1800s) have their spigot shaft (the clutch runs on it) from the outer end of the flywheel assy , sticking into the end of the crank & running in a bush, then the other end into a big bearing in the outer case a bit like an oversized outrigger bearing, with the 3-drop gear , in a case of their own, outboard of the whole flywheel assy, sort of backwards to a mini but "Normal" (funny enough) for a normal car`s clutch mechanisim

so you could make a 5-main &&&&&&&& have a really strong (bearing-ed) spigot shaft outboard, holding (or attempting to hold) the flywheel end from wobbling around yeah :-)

ok, so now lets make it a small V8 crank with all new billet alloy machined block & cases, & &&& :-)

I think we are onto something, the big heavy unsupported flywheel is subject to all sorts of gyro effects. They could almost break a crank just by going around a corner! (don't laugh, in the early 1950s the Cooper Bristol Formula 2 cars could break the crank from the results of a spin)
Ever spun the front wheel of a bicycle and then turned the steering? Think of a flywheel spinning at 7000 rpm... And it is all aimed at 90° to our nuts.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:07 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
And it is all aimed at 90° to our nuts.


:shock: Never thought of it that way OUCH!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:13 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
TheMiniMan wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
I think that if an extra main bearing is needed it probably should be behind the flywheel.

(just one crank after another)


ala similar design to the old Austin1800 , but make it better yesh?

for those of you who don`t know, they (the austin 1800s) have their spigot shaft (the clutch runs on it) from the outer end of the flywheel assy , sticking into the end of the crank & running in a bush, then the other end into a big bearing in the outer case a bit like an oversized outrigger bearing, with the 3-drop gear , in a case of their own, outboard of the whole flywheel assy, sort of backwards to a mini but "Normal" (funny enough) for a normal car`s clutch mechanisim

so you could make a 5-main &&&&&&&& have a really strong (bearing-ed) spigot shaft outboard, holding (or attempting to hold) the flywheel end from wobbling around yeah :-)

ok, so now lets make it a small V8 crank with all new billet alloy machined block & cases, & &&& :-)

I think we are onto something, the big heavy unsupported flywheel is subject to all sorts of gyro effects. They could almost break a crank just by going around a corner! (don't laugh, in the early 1950s the Cooper Bristol Formula 2 cars could break the crank from the results of a spin)
Ever spun the front wheel of a bicycle and then turned the steering? Think of a flywheel spinning at 7000 rpm... And it is all aimed at 90° to our nuts.


HMMM ! flywheel forces Nah I won't go down that track, But I think that we can all apprieciate the forces and loads that happen to a engine. When you think about it all theroetically a engine should not work at all

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:15 pm 
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Someone should make a 5 bearing mini block & crank, just like the japs did when they copied the A series, the mighty A12,A15 etc in the Datsun 1200,120Y etc, or closer to home the Austin 1800. Maybe we could convince our Chineese friends to do it. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:35 pm 
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850man wrote:
Someone should make a 5 bearing mini block & crank, just like the japs did when they copied the A series, the mighty A12,A15 etc in the Datsun 1200,120Y etc, or closer to home the Austin 1800. Maybe we could convince our Chineese friends to do it. :wink:


In alloy? Just for stamps?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:38 pm 
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A four bearing crank would probably make more power.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 4:02 pm 
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Hi David
David EN40B will always be EN40B to me if i started quoting all thoes numbers no one would know what i was talking about and i can't remember that many numbers any way.
The analysis you quoted for EN40B [post] ican't see any aluminium in it ,should have at least 1% for the nitride to take to it,but i'm glad at least you agree that there is a 4140 out there that has aluminium in it,
yes what you say is true there are other steels that can be nitrided but to do the job correctly it must have that alloy in it because that is what attracts the nitride with out it you will not get ANY REAL DEPTH no matter what any body tell you,i'v been around high tensile steels for a long time that was my living for 45 years.
I did not quote any figures for the aus crank i did not want them to to nitride my crank i wanted it through hardened to my specs because it was 4140 which will not nitride correctly i would say it only goes in about .002 because with a good new file i can file through it :(
may be people should have listened to matts father a little more, i was told that BMC left their cranks in the tanks for 4 to 5 days thats where they got the depth from,but they had a big problem with bending, but some smart fellow sorted that out, you can straighten the EN40b cranks but don't push them to far
At the moment i am having two more cranks made slightly different design and material but with no surface treatment on them as you know if you harden steel up high and try to nitride it you will only anneal back to the core strength.so once again it will either work or it won't :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 4:11 pm 
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HI GT MOWOG
With the testing of the hardness he will not be able to do a rockwell test on it if he starts to grind the nitriding away because with RC testing you have 150kg weight pushing on a very pointy diamond and if the film strength is to thin it will go right through it to the softer metal.
Graham Russell

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