It's a lucas fan....enough said!

I still have the standard fan, thermo fan only kicks in when required.

this.. I put a thermo fan in mine, then bought a new rad, thermo never even gets switched on now!

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

The trick with overheating is to cure the problem and not to add more things to go wrong.

If that's not a bit of the best advice then I dunno what is...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

don't tell anyone it's one of those cheap chinese alloy rads that don't work though

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tim
68 Deluxe 1293, HIF44, megajolt/EDIS4, daihatsu alternator..

'a mini is for life, not just for christmas!'

Just proves that any clean radiator is better than a blocked one.

hey Jarred, mine looks exactly like this,, 10inch is too big and wont fit unless its on the wheel arch side, and that's a pain, and too close to the wheel for your bumpy dirt roads and your driving anyway.... a 9 inch one like this one, fits inside the guard next to the rad, easy piesey..

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

still reckon they are rubbish lol.. im glad you're one works though



I bought a kenlow fan from uk, uprated motor moves more air then the BIg oz brand, the name escapes me right now, this one pulls crap loads of air with a new rad & one of these, not had one over heating problem at all.



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I managed to squeeze a 10" Davies Craig thermo between the radiator and inner guard on the Moke with a little trimming of the plastic shroud.

The thermo on it's own was not providing adequate cooling, so I've refitted the engine fan. If that doesn't solve my cooling issues, then I'm afraid I have to blame the Chinese alloy rad. It never overheated when I had a grotty old 1100S rad in there...

I'm taking it down the great ocean road tomorrow, so I guess I will know soon.

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

I think when people fit electric fans they often get the aerodynamics wrong.
The fan should be if at possible, fitted to the back of the radiator just as NG and Lockie have done. The radiator then
gets the full flow of air.
The radiator shroud plays an important part in the aerodynamics as it prevents air escaping out the sides and going everywhere except through the radiator.
Minis have a pusher fan so when you fit an electric fan you now have a sucker.
So when fitting an electric fan behind the radiator, it's my opinion that original shroud be removed to allow the full area to be exposed to the airflow.
Electric fans come with a small shroud of sorts, nevertheless another shroud needs to be fabricated so that the fan must draw air through the entire radiator area.
A fan front and back at best would be a compromise and could create its own problems as it's unlikely they would move the same volume of air.
One would be a hindrance to the other.

I have done tests it 100% run hotter then my cleaned
Oz 3 core and my minispares 2 core I now run.

Cooling is perfect now even our hot qld weather, not one problem.
Also the thermo fans can't keep up to cool the cars. They just don't move enough cfm at highway speeds

Thermo fan with a mechanical fan is good though

To life real easy I changed to a rover cowling. In and out quickly now.

Minispares two core with thermo fan only couldn't cope. I'll probably try the two core unit with the engine and thermo fans next. If that's not good enough I'll get the 1100S unit cleaned out and the broken overflow pipe fixed. I know that will work, as it's what I originally run, until I stupidly broke the pipe.

I nicked the alloy rad from Mick. Maybe I should clean it out and give it back now?

Cheers,

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

Above about 40kph no fan is needed.
If it overheats while driving at a constant speed, then it's not the fan it's the radiator or engine.

I drove my 1430cc without any fan at all, it was fine except when you had to stop & there was no air flow.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

If you find your themo fan is not up to the task..here are some approximate calcs....
By putting the fan behind the radiator and not removing the original shroud, you reduce the potential flow by about 25-30%. Which would be fairly critical at highway speeds. Hence why you still need the mechanical fan on the highway!
On top of that if you have left large gaps around the fan, you have reduced the available area by 25-30% at idle when the fan is working.
This is greatly compounded if your fan is set back from the radiator with no added shroud, because the fan is going to suck air from the places of least resistence......all around the fan and not through the radiator, even if it's working at a zillion revs it's probably doing very little to cool your hot engine at idle. Hence why you still need the mechanical fan at idle!
It's a lot of work in a mini to have an electric fan work as it should because the radiator is held in by the fan shroud, so another method of support needs to be made.

Edit> A bit of a balls up in the calc Thought it was a bit exaggerated! It should read about 10-15%
Still you can see how electric fans would not necessarily solve the problem.
Another problem at highway speeds is the mechanical fan is thrashing about unable to cope with the
high speed flow, so becoming a hinderence.

To steal one from the Doc;-

(Put's on flame proof suit)

Why do you want to go to an Electric Fan? Save HP?

Then, think about this guys.

How many HP does the stock fan absorb? 2, 3, 4 maybe 5 HP?

The air pressure drop across the stock mini radiator, mounted in the original location does not have very much pressure drop at all, so a fan is constantly needed to move air through the radiator fins.

So if a stock fan only absorbs 2 HP (~1.5kW), how can a Fan, driven from an electric motor with a current draw of less than 15 amps @ 12 Volts = 180 watts move the same volume of air at the same or a better rate?

Further, even if it could move enough air, with losses in the Alternator and Electic Motor, it will actually absorb more power from the engine.

Also,

Put in an electric fan with the mechanical one will also make matters worse. The electric fan will spin at a constant speed where as the engine driven one will not. So (for example) the Electric fan will try to move a constant 50 cfm and the engine one will vary from 15 to 100 cfm, and in doing so, impead air flow and so have a lower pressure drop. This situation will only work when the the volume of air from both fans is matched in which case, why have the second fan?

These Electric fans work well for front mounted radiators.

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