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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 10:02 pm 
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Morris 1100 wrote:
One is a very early Morris 1100 motor and the other is from a later motor with a PCV valve. (1100S, Cooper S, etc)


It cant be that early a M1100 motor as the early ones didnt have a fuel pump hole, like a 998 Cooper block.

Someone has fitted the breather type sideplate, you can see the earlier type plate next to it. I would find a matching later type plate and use them, the rubber seals work better than the earlier cork type.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 4:14 pm 
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850man wrote:
Morris 1100 wrote:
One is a very early Morris 1100 motor and the other is from a later motor with a PCV valve. (1100S, Cooper S, etc)


It cant be that early a M1100 motor as the early ones didnt have a fuel pump hole, like a 998 Cooper block.

Someone has fitted the breather type sideplate, you can see the earlier type plate next to it. I would find a matching later type plate and use them, the rubber seals work better than the earlier cork type.

I meant to say, "one is from an early Morris 1100 motor" :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 5:06 pm 
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Hmmm , this seems to be the most confusing of all my previous confusing questions... :? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Well as far as i know, this one is the stock engine from my old 72 clubman. nothing else on the engine seemed to be modified from original, so i wouldn't think someone would have changed that, would they?
Image


And this one is the engine i will be using now.
Image

Quick follow up question, The old 72 clubby engine had that breather and the breather in the rocker cover. but the other engine has no breather in the rocker cover.... is that ok?
Whats the difference?
Does it need the breather ?

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:29 pm 
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The canister breather was used on 998 Clubbies with the 99H engines, from 1975 on. it was connected to the vac port on the SU.
(yes this canister was also on Cooper S).

The correct rocker cover on the 99H engines had a tiny hole in its vent pipe breather to let air IN. If using the SU vac port setup it won't matter if rocker cover is sealed, or not.

You could fit an 1100S/Cooper S oil filler cap which is vented, I do that on the 1360 but use a plain one on the 1412 stroker. It makes no real difference either way, the PCV sytem works fine.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:16 pm 
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What are the engine numbers of these two blocks, you can put an approximate date by the number.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:21 pm 
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We've covered that previously :D
The old engine out of my 72 engine no. is 10016058.

the blue one is 10002125

Both are 1098's
:)

:D

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:29 pm 
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They are both from 71/72


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:12 pm 
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MrFail wrote:
We've covered that previously :D
The old engine out of my 72 engine no. is 10016058.

the blue one is 10002125

Both are 1098's
:)

:D


Oops Sorry :oops:

I should read back through the post before i comment.

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 8:34 am 
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Ok i'm getting stuck back into the beast, so back to my stupid questions :D


HOW DO I CLEAN BRAKE SHOES?

I finally got one of the drums off the front and it seems to be all sort-of sticky/oily. I cleaned the inside of the drum with petrol and a bit of wet and dry sand paper, and it came up sweet. But how do i clean the shoes? Can they be cleaned with petrol?

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 10:23 am 
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You really want to use a spray on hose off cleaner so that you are not coming into contact with asbestos dust.

I prefer to use this...

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 11:22 am 
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You don't want to use any oil-derived products (including petrol) near your brake shoes; it'll soak into the pad material, leave an oily residue & you won't have any braking power. Use a brake cleaner like M1100 showed; it's alcohol-based so evaporates completely & doesn't leave any residue.

When I'm working on bike disc brakes, I give the pads a bit of a scuff with some sandpaper to remove any surface glazing then rinse them off with the cleaner. I only suggest this step if by some chance you have newer non-asbestos brake linings!!

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 2:09 pm 
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great, thanks guys 8)

I would almost be certain that they are asbestos containing shoes, as they would atleast have to be 5 years old.

Another thing i found is that during the previous owners attempts to remove the drums, the retaining screws in the center are gone. on both sides on the front (dunno about the back yet). Is this a problem? I assume It is something that it should have, even if the wheel holds them there anyway. Where would I find new ones?

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2011 2:11 pm 
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I think most people have a mix of none, one and sometimes two screw in each drum.

4 Wheel studs/nuts holding the wheel on is ample in my opinion.
My mechanic also has no issue with it.

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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 2:20 pm 
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Ok thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 8:25 pm 
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So back to the really silly questions :oops:

How do i tell what type of fuel tank cap i need???

I know it seems funny, but i got a variety of caps with my car.

Vented or Non-vented? :?

:D

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