Hi all,
Soaked my disassembled SU's in Simple Green for a couple of days, and all old residue is gone. However, they are now a dull dark greyish color, i.e. like oxidized aluminum. Is there a product that will easily remove oxidation and brighten them up again?
tx,
bmc

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Ben McCafferty
Bainbridge Island, Washington, USA
1970 ex-police mk2 Cooper S

I think you will have to just buff them for best results
Once you have done that there is a coating you can put on them.

http://www.sharkhidesalesaustralia.com.au/



Here is a fishing forum with many boaties with many questions about the product.
edit> forgot to put in link
http://www.ifish.net/board/archive/inde ... 96978.html

You can always send a PM to 'gafmo', he likes to buff.

I heard a while back the POR make a clear coat that stays clear (the same people that make POR15).

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

PPC I think their name is = Permanent Protective Coatings (or something similar).

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Thanks 1310/71, out of interest I just went and found the link and you are spot on: http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/ (although it doesn't say PPC on that page).

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

Thanks for the tips. Looks like both products/companies are US-based, so I'm sure I can find them here.
bmc

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Ben McCafferty
Bainbridge Island, Washington, USA
1970 ex-police mk2 Cooper S

It looks like the Simple Green has done the job in getting the Years of grime from your carb. I don't know a product that would take the tarnish off it other than a bit of elbow greece. Any of the popular metal polish will do the job just depends on the amount of time and effet you want to take. You can try anything from Brasso to Autosol to give the shine back. I would test them on the bottom of the carb first and see how much time it would take to get the result you want. You can go to the other extreme and and take many hours and take every scratch & mark out with various grads of wet & dry and buffing wheels

http://forum.caswellplating.com/

I also use POR Glisten I have used it on many parts and the motor in my Van is not painted a colour but brushed Glisten for that raw look

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

http://ppcco.com.au/

Their technical help is very good, however it is only valid if you follow their instructions exactly / to the letter.

These guys sell it

http://wwwvgautopaints.rtrk.com.au/

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glass/plastic bead/soda blast?

before: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y223/A ... C03035.jpg

after: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y223/A ... C02318.jpg

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Only problem you'll find with blasting Ally, is that it gets dirty very quickly afterwards. I personally don't mind the finish, I find it quiet attractive, but if ANYTHING even thinners touches it, you'll see a discolouration. In that regard its a bit of a pain in the arse.

As gaf said... elbow grease, no substitute for sweat.

I have been watching that on my set as I have been watching the weathering on the engine paint, zinc plated and bare surfaces since resto. I haven't found it to be a problem in the two years so far. I don't use mine as a daily however, but I think the the glass polishes more than it etches which stops oils from soaking into the metal.

I think it was 850man who mentioned a method of returning them to a seemingly more original die cast finish. I can't find the post however...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

blast using crushed walnut Regards Daren

Polish with teabags.

teabag it? I think you've been looking at the wrong websites.

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Or Big Brother!

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