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 Post subject: real bad clutch shudder
PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:02 pm 
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1098cc
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Location: Leonay nsw
my car has really bad clutch shudder changing down gears and taking off im goning to get the clutch changed but could anything else be wrong?

what would be the best clutch to get iv heard borg and beck are good

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:11 pm 
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If you are buying a clutch kit Borg & Beck is the factory original, and the best.

2 common causes of shudder-

a. drive straps not parallel to flywheel face- when you change down and let the clutch in it will go `drrrrr' and you will feel a vibration.
The cause of this is people refacing the flywheel or backplate surfaces and not machining the 3 posts on the backplate by the same amount.

b. Cheapo Asian `cardboard' clutch plates- after a few heat cycles and a bit of work they start to grab and shudder as you take off. Barney had one in when I bought him, all the engine mounts and steadies were good, he still shuddered.
Not any more... 8)
As I said above, stick to a Borg & Beck and you will not have trouble. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:24 pm 
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Causing or creating vexation

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I get a bit of clutch shudder with my car and it is caused by oil leaking onto the clutch.

There are two ways of fixing it...

1) The proper way, Replace the rear seal and replace the clutch plate.
2) The other way, slip the clutch to burn off the oil every time it starts shuddering.

I took option 2. :lol:

My car has done 107,000 miles without removing the motor, so you could say it is well and truly run in.
It only gets clutch shudder when I do lots of stop start driving (when I visit Sydney) But around Goulburn it is fine.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 8:27 pm 
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Quote:
. drive straps not parallel to flywheel face- when you change down and let the clutch in it will go `drrrrr' and you will feel a vibration.
The cause of this is people refacing the flywheel or backplate surfaces and not machining the 3 posts on the backplate by the same amount



would this happen when taking off aswell?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:05 pm 
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No, not the same, because the straps are then in tension. What this will do though is give less clutch clamping pressure, and a heavy feeling to the pedal as the spring doesn't go over centre when clutch is disengaged..
The diaphragm spring should be flat when it's all assembled- backplate-drive plate-flywheel-diaphragm spring.
You can do this on the bench then stick a light under the diaphragm spring cover and have a look if it's flat or not.
Many places just don't bother, then you can get problems.

For lots of clutch setup info go here- http://www.minimania.com/web/DisplayID/ ... ticleV.cfm
:wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:08 pm 
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1098cc
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i dont really no much bout clutches

it has clutch shudder taking of and when releasing the clutch down gears what would you advise me to do just replace the clutch or could it be the other thingy aswell

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:15 pm 
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If the straps look parallel or nearly so, just replace the clutch.
If there's any oil there, you will have to get the seal changed too.
But, before you attack it, first look to see your engine mounts & steady rubbers are good, they can cause judder or make it worse.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:17 pm 
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i have a remote gearbox with a left and right engine steady so ill check them too

thanks for all your help :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 2:30 am 
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Just to add some detail to Drmini's last comment......

There is also a rubber mount at the end of your gear lever extension, underneath the car. It is cylindrical with a steel plate on each end. If one of these plates breaks away from the rubber, it will allow your gear shift to lift up and down during accelleration and decelleration. This "play" will also give you a shuddering clutch feeling.

Push down hard on your gear knob and see if you can push the whole lot towards the ground. Its not meant to.

*edit - this may not be the problem because you have both left and right engine steadies fitted. Those steadies should hold the engine quite well without the gear extension mount....that is, unless you have multiple rotten rubbers.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2005 5:12 pm 
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just got a quote for the clutch $110 for a borg and beck cooper s clutch plus $288 labour

wish i could do it mysefl

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 12:13 am 
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i have garadge and tools anyone wanna give a teaching seesion ??
makka
in other words benj if you wanna come to bossley park and the good doctor can do the work you supplie beer and we supplie the help
and i have a bbq :)

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2005 6:57 am 
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We havent done one of these in a while :lol:

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