Ahoy there chaps and chapettes,
ive started the strip down on the Mini K i found in the paddock. The interior has been removed and now im just about to embark on removal of the heavy bits.
As i dont have an engine lifter my plan is to drop the engine out attached to the subframe to make things easier for myself plus i plan on replacing the engine & subframe with my supercharged 1275 thats in my clubbie once the body work has been completed, so i dont need them to be separated.
My question to the knowledge banks is what needs to be undone in order to do this.
So far ive:
removed the carby and manifold
removed the exhaust
disconnected all wiring & battery strap
disconnected clutch slave
disconnected brake lines from master cylinder
and removed the radiator.

Ive also removed the steering wheel and its "shaft" so all thats poking through the floor inside the car is the little grooved "post" thing the shaft joins to. Is there anything more i have to do in regards to the steering side of things?

I have also removed the gear stick.

Is there anything else that needs to be removed before i start undoing the bolts that hold the subframe to the car??

And with the subframe bolts is this all there are that need to be undone:
2 at the very front under the bumper each side of the number plate
2 on each side in bonnet area near firewall
2 on each side inside car in footwell
2 on tunnel at rear of where gearstick was

There are also 2 sets of bolts on each side inside the car halfway up the footwell wall, do they need to be undone aswell?


Now i have a part question, is this just your normal gear stick or is it quickshift one?


And is this the standard K guage setup



And finally, what year is my 850 body?

YMS2S1
126462 / 17381
8AM/U/H 343425
Sunburst Cream

Thanks in advance
trent

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There is a thrid bolt where the gearstick comes through the floor. On the opposite side of the cross member inside the car where you have taken out the two bolts. (Under the handbrake lever by the cross member).
Remove the speedo cable from the rear of the speedo.
Undo the brake line that runs from the master cylinder to the subframe (and remove the wires from the switch on the subframe).
The four nuts inside the fire wall above the foot well also need to come out. These hold the U bolts for the steering rack. Remove the nuts and push (hit) the U bolts out so they are free of the floor and steering rack.
I would also remove the distributor. Easy to damage if it gets caught.
There may also be a horn hiding down under the front of the radiator with a couple of sires on it.
Also get the heater out of the way if it is still under the bonnet.

... and if you have a mechanical fuel pump, remove the hose that goes to the fuel tank line.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Hydro lines have to be disconnected.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Erm...



That ain't no Mini K, it's an 850..

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

Erm, look at pictures, read words

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Too many cars, and too little time.

It sure is, i have the K, an 850, a matic and a clubbie too
just curious about the year that it is

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Pffft.. reading is for 2nd graders

My apologies

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I'd say the 850 is a '62. Possibly the first half of the year?

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Saxon Green 850: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=62641
Nightfire Red 850: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=66555

Taking off the carby, inlet and exhaust manifolds wasnt strictly neccessary but you have done it, so be it. It would have cleared okay.

However - make sure you have the powerplant or subframe sitting on blocks of wood or something similar to hold it upright as you lift the body over it. It will happily topple over otherwise.

Once you dislodge the subframe from its mountings it should be easy (with a couple of assistants) to lift the body over it all. If you find resistance then there is a reason. Something is still connected. Steering rods, speedo cable, brake lines, earth strap - anything !!!! Dont use brute force - check why the resistance !!!

Mike

Apologies in advance, I feel that ths will be taken the wong way, but that is not the intention.

IMO, it is about the hardest way possible to go about a job like this. Beg, borrow or (heaven forbid) buy an engine lifter. My first one was little more than 3 lengths of 4 x 2 oregan and a $22.00 come-along. I don't think the whole set up cost me more than $45.00 and I used that for over 3 years.

Once you lift the body (however your planning on doing that), then what? Asuming you can lift it, you will still need to move either the body while raised, or somehow get the 'lump' (subframe and engine assy) out of the way. Then you still need to get the engine out of the subframe, install you other one then skull drag it back under the body and get it all together again. Moving such large & heavy pieces about without the right equipment also increase the risk of damage, especially to the body.

I suggest taking the engine out the top, then if you still need to remove the subframe, drop it out after the engine is out.

<EDIT> I have once done it by dropping the lot out the bottom, so I do know how hard it is.

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Agreed.

I also agree and its so easy to go to a hire shop and spend a hundred dollars to hire an engine lifter.

However, if you are mentally committed to lifting the body over the subframe then follow the advice and hints given.

I have done it both ways many times and the difference by lifting out the motor and then dropping the subframes (if you still need to) is some hours faster than the dropping of the power plant and subframe assay.

But do ask yourself what advantage does dropping the subframe give you ???

Mike

I did it this way, once.
The only reason- I was swapping my MiniMatic 998 motor/box with its auto hydro subby, with a Clubman GT 1310 motor/box and its hydro subby.
I just lifted both bodies, wheeled the subbies around then dropped the bodies back on.
Otherwise, I agree with posts above- much less hassle to pull the motor out first.

Note, before I get burned by purists- the Clubby was only a `76 but had Mk2S/GT motor and box and subby (from early GT) in it.
This orphan bitsa is somewhere out there- `76 Clubby now with hydro, 998 Matic, 998 Cooper discs, and a VH44 booster.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks for the replys, and i do see your points and no offence has been taken, im always keen to learn but this isnt a swap it over right now kind of deal.
My plans are to drop the engine and subframe out, move it out of the way with the use of a trolley thing i have. Then the rear frame will come out and then its rotesserie time for the shell. Ive got a bit of rust removal to do which i can only do on weekends and for an hour or so after work so its going to take some time to get through it. Then my plan at this stage is to swap the wet subframes to dry (this may change down the track) and when it gets to the point to install the 1275, ill install subframe first and then use a proper engine lift for the engine.
As i wanted to start the body works straight away and as it stands tonight i only have 2 bolts holding the front subframe in the car, so i decided on going the lift over:)

Once the engine is out, it will be for sale so if your after a cheap 1098 keep a watch out.

thanks again
trent

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